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Old 06-10-2012, 07:48 PM   #41
NewBrewB
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Man, every time I find a thread that is exactly what I am doing or want to do, I start salivating as I read...

Then I unexpectedly hit the end of the thread and realize I have to wait for more... nnnnnooooooooo!!!

I dont suppose you live in my neighborhood in Rhode Island?? Maybe next door? That would be awesome haha
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:18 PM   #42
Huaco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewBrewB View Post
Man, every time I find a thread that is exactly what I am doing or want to do, I start salivating as I read...

Then I unexpectedly hit the end of the thread and realize I have to wait for more... nnnnnooooooooo!!!

I dont suppose you live in my neighborhood in Rhode Island?? Maybe next door? That would be awesome haha
Haha... I know how you feel! Been there...

No, I live out in the STIX in a little town of 400 people that does not sell beer! I just have to make my own... Darn...

I have all but finished the panel door. I just need to add a locking latch to close the cabinet and then add a brewery badge... the badge will come when the brewery is done though...
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Old 06-20-2012, 04:13 AM   #43
Huaco
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Back plate of control panel was drilled and tapped the other day... all 48 FREAKIN' HOLES!
I also mounted all the internal components. If you notice, I have planned for possible future expansion of this system to be switched over to a RIMS system. I may never do it, but I figure while I am drilling and tapping I may as well make the chips fly while no other electrical components are at risk of a stray chip lodging in somewhere... I will also drill and tap mounting holes in the heat sink for an additional Solid State Relay to switch a RIMS element. On my control panel door, you will see I left a spot above the MASH TEMP PID controller. If I ever decide to go RIMS I will simply add a pilot light and a switch on the panel. On the inside... A SSR, Contactor, and fuse block going out to a connector on the bottom of the cabinet.
Now... on to the wiring...
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:29 PM   #44
Huaco
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Got the main power circuit completed and tested yesterday...

Felt REAL good to hear the clunk of the contactor and see that little blue light turn on!


 
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:37 PM   #45
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Nice!

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Old 06-29-2012, 06:21 AM   #46
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Ok... Another step completed!
Both pump switches function as intended! (Green lights and switches respectively)


 
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:17 AM   #47
aquenne
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Quote:
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Can you please post a picture of what you did? I would like to see it.
heres the one i made
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:48 PM   #48
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This morning I was able to fix the volt meter issue. (it was only reading 120V) This is kind of surreal actually... It seemed like I would NEVER be done with the control panel. Now it is on to the next phase. Plumbing.
Notice the volt meter actually reads correct now! woohoo! I had placed the meter sensor wire on an empty side of a coil on the contactor. It should have been placed on the power terminal of the hot-b side of the contactor. Makes all the difference in the world when you have both 120 lines actually coming into the meter. The wire diagrams I had used relays instead of contactors. Their anatomy is just a little different.

I still have a lot of work on my plumbing and keggles, but it is getting MUCH closer! My local club, Cap and Hare, has several members that are VERY interested in my system. I plan to have those that are interested over for the first brew, so they can get a look at it.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:51 PM   #49
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This is an awesome thread. Would you mind sharing the expected budget? I would love to do this but not sure what to plan for in terms of $$$. No worries if you don't want to share. Best of luck!

 
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Old 07-10-2012, 07:13 PM   #50
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It is not hard to estimate a budget for this build. Look at theelectricbrewery.com site and then follow ALL his links to source all the parts yourself. I chose to go with the kit he sells for the control panel and temp probes because I could pay shipping on ALL that stuff just one time. (instead of paying shipping on 30 different orders)

I will say this, you should be able to come in under 3K once completely finished though.

 
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