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Old 03-18-2012, 03:22 AM   #11
thelorax121
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Apr 2009
Athens GA
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Something like this?

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewt...hp?f=2&t=19973

 
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:41 AM   #12
StMarcos
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Apr 2008
Sebastopol, CA
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lil bigger than that

 
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Old 06-09-2012, 12:17 AM   #13
Landshark67
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Apr 2008
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My only issue with the immersion chiller is the diameter and lack of being able to drop the beer to 38F. If I could truly cold crash the beer effectively my life/lower back would be great.

My preference is to crash fast and cold so I can get the next beer into the fermenter.

Brew on!

 
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:53 AM   #14
bnhocking
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May 2011
Walton, Kentucky
Posts: 42

One thing I can say for sure, and it has already been mentioned with the sleeping bag. If there is not and air tight bond between the metal and the insulation there will be condensation. I used the nomaco kflex sheets found here: [URL="http://www.zorotools.com/s/?q=Insul-Sheet+S2S+Insulation"]. Sticky back works like a champ. It is water proof so a wipe down is all that is needed for cleaning.

 
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:32 AM   #15
StMarcos
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Apr 2008
Sebastopol, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnhocking View Post
One thing I can say for sure, and it has already been mentioned with the sleeping bag. If there is not and air tight bond between the metal and the insulation there will be condensation. I used the nomaco kflex sheets found here: [URL="http://www.zorotools.com/s/?q=Insul-Sheet+S2S+Insulation"]. Sticky back works like a champ. It is water proof so a wipe down is all that is needed for cleaning.
Sounds like a nice product. Only Rvalue of 4 for the 1'' stuff. What did you use? How much of the fermentor did you cover? Would love to see pics!

 
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:46 PM   #16
bnhocking
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May 2011
Walton, Kentucky
Posts: 42

Quote:
Originally Posted by StMarcos View Post
Sounds like a nice product. Only Rvalue of 4 for the 1'' stuff. What did you use? How much of the fermentor did you cover? Would love to see pics!
Here is a product sheet, scroll down to the thickness vs temp and relative humidity. http://www.insulation.org/mtl/pdfs/001028_474.pdf Basically if the outside temp is 85 degrees whit a humidity of 70% and your tank wall is 32 degrees you need 3/4 of an inch to stop condensation. cover as much as you can where the beer is contacting the walls of the fermenter, think of a beer can cozy.

Here is a photo. It is a 37 gallon Stainless fermenter with convex bottom. The thermowell is mounted at the 9 gallon mark. I currently ferment with 17 gallons in it and 25 feet of stainless coil and with chilled water running through it is all you need for ales. I have not tried with a lager yet but on an ale the water is pumped through the coil for about 4 minutes every 5 hours during the peak of fermentation.
Click image for larger version

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Old 02-22-2013, 12:27 AM   #17
StMarcos
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Apr 2008
Sebastopol, CA
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Maybe I'll have the GF knit one

Actually considering using this stuff on a mashtun.

 
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:42 AM   #18
VladOfTrub
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Oct 2011
, Pa
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There's a product called armaflex. It comes in sheets. It's used in the refrigeration world for doing what you want to do. Once you insulate the tank and with -20 F glycol flowing through the coil. The coil might ice up. Unless, the beer is high octane. The coil that the company provides has a moderate pressure drop. You may need a higher volume pump. If the pumps is direct drive, a pressure actuated bypass or at the least a ball valve would be good to install between the discharge and suction. Low temp pumps usually have different seals and are insulated. You may want to thin down the glycol, like the other brewer did. In -20 to -40 F low temp industrial chillers, it isn't recommended to run 100% glycol. Heat transfer is less using 100% glycol. A fermenter that can be pulled down to 30's F is usually jacketed. They're designed in such away that the coolant temp is very close to the desired temp of the beer. Having a close TD keeps the beer from freezing on the tank wall. A circ pump is used to keep the beer moving, to transfer its heat to the jacket and evenly cool the beer. You may want to consider using a pump to circ the beer around the tank, especially with -20 coolant temps. You might want to get rid of the box 90's and use longer radius 90s. Or, bend up soft copper into sweep 90's and fit them to the stainless. Less pressure drop. The fermenter you have is a great investment and once you work out the cooling bugs. It will be a very valuable tool in your brewing world. The spunding valve and CO2 port are great...I have two 14.5 G stainless conicals with a blow off and spunding valve. I use CO2 to transfer from primary to secondary to the keg. No more using gravity or worrying about head space, air or micro bugs getting sucked in.

 
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:59 AM   #19
BetterSense
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Jul 2011
Richardson, Texas
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Where did you get your glycol? I tried this last year with RV antifreeze and it froze solid on me. Even mixed 50-50 with Everclear it still slushed up. I guess you need 100% pure glycol with no water.

 
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:53 AM   #20
StMarcos
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Apr 2008
Sebastopol, CA
Posts: 978
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I can't remember where I got the glycol. I diluted it 50-50 with RO water, and it sits in a tub in a cheap chest freezer on the coolest setting. I don't really want to bump up the temp as I keep hops and frozen yeast in the same freezer. Never was sure if anything was freezing up on the coils in the fermenter. I sold the hemoth chiller and now cool the ambient in a big foam box, with a tranny cooler and some fans.

 
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