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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Ready or Not E-BIAB Here I Come....
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:33 PM   #21
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Very nice. I intend to copy a lot of this and leave room for a future countdown timer. Are you intending to install any terminal strips or will you use wire nuts to connect the wires inside your control box?

I was planning to buy a regular electrical enclosure, but this is a lot - like $80 less expensive. .


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Old 03-16-2012, 09:40 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MarkD View Post
Very nice. I intend to copy a lot of this and leave room for a future countdown timer. Are you intending to install any terminal strips or will you use wire nuts to connect the wires inside your control box?

I was planning to buy a regular electrical enclosure, but this is a lot - like $80 less expensive. .
Thanks. I do intend to use terminal strips. I'm thinking maybe lined up vertically but not sure as of yet. I am going to have a homebrew and sit down and think about it.
My power is going to come in down near the two outlets so the terminal strip may end up down there.
I have to cut venting somewhere because of the fan on the SSR heat sink so that may come into play as well.


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Old 03-16-2012, 09:46 PM   #23
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I did a little work today on the graphics for the vinyl C-Panel decals. If you are wondering, the 1's and 0's on the PID decal are binary code for those three letters. P I D = 01010000 01001001 01000100

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Old 03-16-2012, 10:27 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aubiecat
I did a little work today on the graphics for the vinyl C-Panel decals.
These are great
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Old 03-17-2012, 01:45 AM   #25
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Subscribed. Looks like you have a majority of the same parts I have or am looking at - Same junction box and Harbor Freight punch set.

Keep up the good work.
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Old 03-17-2012, 03:48 AM   #26
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Just to give you an idea how thick the box is.
.182" is typical throughout.





Ha Ha! finally found the rest of my spring tip bottle filler.

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Old 03-17-2012, 03:50 AM   #27
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Got the top and recirculating tube finished.



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Old 03-17-2012, 03:54 AM   #28
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Measuring the depth from the bottom of the steam basket to the bottom of the kettle.



2.967" , so a touch off 3". Plenty of room for the element.

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Old 03-17-2012, 04:04 AM   #29
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Lets cut the access for the element. I measured up 1-1/2" from the bottom and used the auto punch to get my mark.


Pre-drill.


Step drill.


These punches are cool tools.



Literally, like butter.
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Old 03-17-2012, 04:09 AM   #30
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I'm going to solder the lock nut onto the kettle so this cleaning the metal around the hole is very important.


Getting a nice clean flat surface for the solder to wick up to.




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