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Old 06-01-2012, 05:11 PM   #31
tre9er
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you could either add a 45* elbow or just don't worry about it. By the final sparge you're leaving behind very thin wort. Adjust your sparge water volume accordingly so you have enough. I always prepare more sparge water than I need.


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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!

 
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:08 PM   #32
DonMagee
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I use a Kettle screen - 12" Long I ordered when I bought my cooler conversion kit. I've done 4 all grain batches with this setup so far and I'm very happy with it.



 
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:12 PM   #33
BobBailey
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Originally Posted by IMNOTL8 View Post
I thought I might add this tip... I got my 10 gallon igloo cooler at Wal-mart.com http://alturl.com/atxer for $39.98. The exact same cooler on the Igloo company website is $77.99!

Another question for everyone... Due to the drain hole being about 1 inch above the bottom, do you have a lot of dead space in the bottom? I mine with just water until the siphon action stopped and had almost 80oz of fluid left!
I leave about 1 1/2 qts. with a 10 gallon round and SS braid. A little slower draining allows more wort to drain from the grain.

Bob

 
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:15 PM   #34
tre9er
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobBailey View Post
I leave about 1 1/2 qts. with a 10 gallon round and SS braid. A little slower draining allows more wort to drain from the grain.

Bob
This is true, before siphon is broken more liquid can settle to the bottom.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!

 
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:19 PM   #35
jeepinjeepin
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If you can connect a hose that extends below the bottom of the MLT it will drain more completely before it loses the siphon. This does nothing to combat the slow settling of liquid from the grain column. Sparging slower will help that some.
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:39 PM   #36
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Started with a 16 inch braid for my first few batches, cut it down to 8 inches and it still works great. have a coil of copper wire inside to to prevent any damage during the stirring process, and i stir pretty aggresively. i only sparge slow when i do a pumpkin ale otherwise once it runs clear, wide open baby

 
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:26 PM   #37
BigJay13
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The only time I have had an issue with my braid was when I brewed with a pump for the first time. I recirculated waaaay too fast and it crimped the braid. Since then I haven't had any issues. We get 84% eff with a hwh supply hose about 2" diameter and runs just straight across the mash tun (converted keg). Some day we will get a false bottom but I am happy with 84%.

 
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:31 PM   #38
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Does anyone have any recommentations for getting rid of some of the braid threads sharp ends? I used a dremel to get rid of the fittings on my braid, but the ends are really sharp. I'd like to prevent getting cuts cleaning the tun, so any tips would be awesome.

 
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:40 PM   #39
jeepinjeepin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanThomas
Does anyone have any recommentations for getting rid of some of the braid threads sharp ends? I used a dremel to get rid of the fittings on my braid, but the ends are really sharp. I'd like to prevent getting cuts cleaning the tun, so any tips would be awesome.
A second hose clamp or wrap in copper wire.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:47 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanThomas View Post
Does anyone have any recommentations for getting rid of some of the braid threads sharp ends? I used a dremel to get rid of the fittings on my braid, but the ends are really sharp. I'd like to prevent getting cuts cleaning the tun, so any tips would be awesome.
A decent pair of scissors will trim the end of a frayed braid...the stainless wires are so fine the trim pretty easily w/ scissors.



 
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