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Old 03-04-2012, 10:43 PM   #21
DocHolidaze
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Mar 2012
nor, cal
Posts: 21

Quote:
Originally Posted by Calder View Post
You can get a decent Pale Ale in the glass in 4 weeks:

- 2 weeks Primary.
- 2 weeks in bottle at 70+F

That's way too quick for me as I like to let them clear in the fermenter.

However, the higher the abv, the longer it will take to be balanced and refreshing.

A big problem we have is that we really don't know what he wants to brew. All we have is he wants to use a lot of honey, and to me that means it is going to take a while, even if I could think of a decent beer style with lots of honey.
i dont have to use honey its what readiley available to me if there is somthing that is more suiting to my needs than honey i will use it

 
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:18 PM   #22
turkeyjerky214
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Nov 2009
Westminster, CO
Posts: 423
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Last time I made my Imperial IPA (8.4%), I had it on tap 3 weeks after I brewed it. It was incredible.

As others have said, 30 days is unreasonable because you're bottle conditioning and not force carbing with co2, but high gravity with a quick turn-around, an Imperial IPA might be your best bet.
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Tap 1: English Dark Mild Tap 2: American Brown Tap 3: American Amber Tap 4: Sour Belgian Brown Tap 5: Nitro Milk Stout
Fermenting: Märzen
Kegged: Amber, Brown, Milk Stout
Lagering: Vienna Lager

 
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:24 PM   #23
DocHolidaze
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Mar 2012
nor, cal
Posts: 21

Quote:
Originally Posted by turkeyjerky214 View Post
Last time I made my Imperial IPA (8.4%), I had it on tap 3 weeks after I brewed it. It was incredible.

As others have said, 30 days is unreasonable because you're bottle conditioning and not force carbing with co2, but high gravity with a quick turn-around, an Imperial IPA might be your best bet.
i would like to know more about this imperial ipa if u got any info

 
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:26 AM   #24
IffyG
 
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Oct 2009
Nashville
Posts: 1,393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veritas524 View Post
He's not slamming you, in fact he's one of the most helpful people on these forums.
Helpful.... most of time time. However, he doesn't need to come off all high and mighty when dispensing his advice.

 
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:35 AM   #25
DocHolidaze
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Mar 2012
nor, cal
Posts: 21

Quote:
Originally Posted by IffyG View Post
Helpful.... most of time time. However, he doesn't need to come off all high and mighty when dispensing his advice.

 
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:44 AM   #26
chris181rtHops
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Jan 2012
Chester, VA
Posts: 9

I'm making a bipa 1.132 to 1.0
19 16 days primary in a frikin beer machine...it will be ready to drink extract to glass in just 6 weeks....and my numbers are right .yea I had to use wlp099 first and a 2nd pitch of champaign yeast at 8 days but its attenuating perfectly

 
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:49 AM   #27
chris181rtHops
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Jan 2012
Chester, VA
Posts: 9

oops ..I missed a zero in my first reply its at 1.019 today

 
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:19 AM   #28
pdxal
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Jul 2010
Portland, OR
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I think what Revvy is picking up on is this central point:
Do you want good beer, or do you want high alcohol hooch?
If you want good beer it will take longer to ferment and take longer to condition. Much more than 30 days.
If you want high alcohol hooch and don't care about the taste, you can dump a ton of sugar into a Mr. Beer beer kit and get high alcohol junk in a short period of time.
Which direction are you heading, DocHolidaze?

 
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:29 AM   #29
Calder
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Mar 2010
Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolidaze View Post
i dont have to use honey its what readiley available to me if there is somthing that is more suiting to my needs than honey i will use it
OK, here goes. A 2 gallon batch. for a different volume, just change the ingredients by the same amount.

6 ozs Crystal 60. Steep in 160 F water for 30 minutes.
3 lbs of Pale LME (or light, extra light, golden, or other light liquid extract). Add to water after removing steeping grains.
Alternative to 3 lbs LME is to use 2.5 lbs DME (dried malt extract).
When water starts boiling add some bittering hops. You will need about 4 AAs of any hops. That is, if the AAs of a hop is 12, you will need a third of an ounce. If the AAs are 4, you will need an ounce.
You will want to boil this for 60 minutes total after adding the hops.
With 15 minutes to go, I would suggest adding some flavor hops. About half an ounce.
At 5 minutes to go, I would suggest adding some aroma hops. About half an ounce.

Once boiling is complete, cool as quickly as possible.

What hops to use? Cascade for a traditional American Pale Ale. Use Goldings or Fuggles for an English Pale Ale. Use any hops you want, these are suggestions (Cascades will get you something similar to Sierra Nevada Pale Ale).

If you want to add some simple sugars (honey), do not go above half a pound. It will increase the alcohol by a little over 1%, and will nicely dry it out.

What yeast. For an American style ale, S-05. For an English style ale, S-04, or Nottingham. Try and keep fermentation temperatures between 60 and 70 F.

Without the honey, this will give you a beer of about 5.5%. Adding half a pound of honey will get you to 6.5%. Adding more simple sugar will just thin it out make it hot tasting with alcohol.

Leave in primary for 2 weeks, and you should be able to bottle at that time. Keep bottles above 70F to help carbonation ... then drink.

Hope this is what you were looking for. For a quick turn-around, it is very important to watch temperatures. Probably best to keep ferment temps around 65 (but never over 70 F .... otherwise you will get a lot of esters and high alcohols).

 
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:15 AM   #30
DocHolidaze
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Mar 2012
nor, cal
Posts: 21

Quote:
Originally Posted by Calder View Post
OK, here goes. A 2 gallon batch. for a different volume, just change the ingredients by the same amount.

6 ozs Crystal 60. Steep in 160 F water for 30 minutes.
3 lbs of Pale LME (or light, extra light, golden, or other light liquid extract). Add to water after removing steeping grains.
Alternative to 3 lbs LME is to use 2.5 lbs DME (dried malt extract).
When water starts boiling add some bittering hops. You will need about 4 AAs of any hops. That is, if the AAs of a hop is 12, you will need a third of an ounce. If the AAs are 4, you will need an ounce.
You will want to boil this for 60 minutes total after adding the hops.
With 15 minutes to go, I would suggest adding some flavor hops. About half an ounce.
At 5 minutes to go, I would suggest adding some aroma hops. About half an ounce.

Once boiling is complete, cool as quickly as possible.

What hops to use? Cascade for a traditional American Pale Ale. Use Goldings or Fuggles for an English Pale Ale. Use any hops you want, these are suggestions (Cascades will get you something similar to Sierra Nevada Pale Ale).

If you want to add some simple sugars (honey), do not go above half a pound. It will increase the alcohol by a little over 1%, and will nicely dry it out.

What yeast. For an American style ale, S-05. For an English style ale, S-04, or Nottingham. Try and keep fermentation temperatures between 60 and 70 F.

Without the honey, this will give you a beer of about 5.5%. Adding half a pound of honey will get you to 6.5%. Adding more simple sugar will just thin it out make it hot tasting with alcohol.

Leave in primary for 2 weeks, and you should be able to bottle at that time. Keep bottles above 70F to help carbonation ... then drink.

Hope this is what you were looking for. For a quick turn-around, it is very important to watch temperatures. Probably best to keep ferment temps around 65 (but never over 70 F .... otherwise you will get a lot of esters and high alcohols).
hell yeah this sounds badass, sierra nevada is one of my favorite ales so this seems to fit perfect for what im looking for, i can defintly work with a 6.5% good looking out man u have been much help

 
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