Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > Absolute worst brew day ever..
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:25 PM   #11
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I'm sorry your Day went so poorly; it's times like you describe that keep me from Moving from BIAB to Three Tier (or one Tier w/Pumps)...

I couldn't deal w/the complexity of your system as much as I like it .........


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Old 02-27-2012, 06:26 PM   #12
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Also, boiling the Wort longer would likely have little effect on the Wort except to increase the SG, I would have removed the Hops and waited to get to the correct volume for the flavor and aroma hops. After all, Liquid Malt has been boiled for a very long time, and DME boiled then dried.


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Old 02-27-2012, 06:30 PM   #13
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Also, a sight glass leak would not cause a cavitaion problem if it was not "in line" with the inlet.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:44 PM   #14
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ASs for as too bitter look at this thread

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/...to=7238&nojs=1

After 90 minutes, almost all bitterness is incorporated.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:33 PM   #15
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Just thought of one more thing, if you are blasting the bottom of the mash tun with the burner to raise the temp of the mash, you may be almost boiling the wort underneath the false bottom, creating air that is immediately sucked up into the down tube, cavitating your pump.
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Old 02-27-2012, 11:14 PM   #16
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Don't worry about burning up a March pump by closing the outlet valve. As long as the pump volute has liquid in it, it cannot be hurt. The liquid just whirls around the pump volute without any harm. If you listen closely, the pump motor speed actually goes up as the valve is closed and the amount of work (moving the water) goes down. The same thing happens with a vacuum cleaner. Put your hand over the nozzle and the motor speed goes up. Take the hand away and the motor speed reduces.

I routinely close off the outlet valve when moving hoses and such. I keep the pump running because the high gravity wort can plate the impellor shaft. If the pump is turned off, the extra friction of that sugar coating on the shaft may prevent the low horsepower motor from restarting the pump.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:05 AM   #17
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A little late is better than never right? I finally got to snap a few photos of the new stand. I will try to shoot some of the keggle insides tomorrow to show how the false bottom is installed. Should my march pump be ok the way it's mounted?




















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Old 02-28-2012, 03:49 PM   #18
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The pump orientation is fine. Walter with March just posted a Primer on March pump mounting here: http://www.homebrewersassociation.or...?topic=11157.0

I see that there are quick connects on the pump. I'm not sure if they can take a potentially negative pressure and not allow air ingress. Just maybe, that might be a source of problem with the pumping. I am very concerned with any air leaks on the suction side of my pump and I went with a hose barb and hose clamp to make sure that I never have air leaks. Its more of a pain, but an air leak will bring out curse words from the best of us.

PS: Those photos need to be deleted and reloaded at MUCH lower resolution. They take forever to load!
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:04 PM   #19
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Good point, I will try a barb connection as well. I will resize the pictures some more, I shot them with my d90 and resized them a good bit already but I guess they are still sort of large. Sorry about that!



::edit:: resized, I hope that's better!


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