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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > I need some scientific help (enzymes and temp control)
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:39 AM   #11
mux
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I use beersmith- but it seems to be off. I switched to a keg for a mash tun. It was always accurate when I used a cooler.


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Old 02-21-2012, 03:08 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by mux View Post
I use beersmith- but it seems to be off. I switched to a keg for a mash tun. It was always accurate when I used a cooler.
Insulated plastic vs metal, you are having more heat loss. You need to adjust the program settings for the change in thermal mass.


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Old 02-21-2012, 03:32 AM   #13
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I have done this twice now-!and not sure if it effects conversion or not. Iodine test confirms conversion but efficiency is low.
Missed mash temp, so I draw off a portion (not all) of strike water from mash tun. I heat it to 200-210 and replace to bring temp up. Is this denaturing the enzymes I need for starch conversation? Any ideas?
Apologies to the OP, this thread went off topic. If i understand your process, you mash, show starch conversion with Iodine, check your gravity, and it is low, you draw off some of the water (wort) and bring it up to just below boil temp, add it back to the mash.... you've done this twice. My question is did you see a difference in your efficiency? Denaturing enzymes is beyond me. I think of it as a PH + Temp thing but maybe someone has a better answer.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:15 AM   #14
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I set beersmith to my new equipment but it only seems accurate if I preheat the mash tun. I should have just used boiling water to increase the temp- but wanted to see what if any thing would be affected. I somewhat understand Decoction, and That is not what took place here. I will just add boiling water, and subtract it from the lautering.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:33 AM   #15
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Yes, you are denaturing the enzymes in the liquid you're drawing off. However, there are enough left to get the job done. You are not, as has been suggested doing a decotion. A decoction boils mostly grains leaving as much of the mash liquid behind in the tun as possible. That's one of the reasons a decoction increases efficiency as the boil helps break down particles in the grain and leaves the majority of the enzymes behind and untouched by the boil.

If you are consistently missing your mash temps then you should think about raising either the temperature or quantity of your strike water. You could also consider an additional infusion with a smaller amount of boiling water to bump up a low temp.
First of all you are dong a decoction mash. A decoction mash is defined as taking portion of the mash and boiling it. No matter the amount of the mash you take out it is still a decoction. The reason the decoction mash began was to account for having under modified malt. Boiling a part of the mash allowed for a breakdown of under modified particles.

To answer your question, yes you denatured any enzymes that were in the decoction that was boiled. Most barley malted in the united states contains high diastic enzymes though so denaturing some of them in a decoction mash won't effect starch conversion. Also doing what you did would be a good way to take your mash to a mash out temperature without having to add water. By doing this you wild be conducting a single decoction mash.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:06 AM   #16
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I set beersmith to my new equipment but it only seems accurate if I preheat the mash tun. I should have just used boiling water to increase the temp-
When I use Beersmith I have to set the grain and mash tun temperature to what is actual. In the winter my storage area is around 65 so I adjust from the default that Beersmith has (72?) Then in the Summer my storage are can be as much as 76 and I adjust for that. I check the box that says adjust temp for equipment. (next to the mash selection) This will give you your strike water temp which will be maybe 15 or so above your mash temp.... Now here is where people deviate in heating the mash tun.... But what I do is I heat my strike water to 10-12 above what beersmith calls for and put that in my mash tun. I let it sit for 10 minutes and the temperature will drop to the beersmith(BS) recommended strike water temperature.

Example... I want to mash at 152 I have beersmith set to my grain temp/cooler temp of 65 BS say's to heat water to 167 (the grain will draw down the temp of the water) i heat my strike water 11 hotter than that to allow cooler absorption. I end up heating water to 178 to start.Pump it to the MT... let it sit for 10 minutes, the water temp drops to BS recommended 167. I add my grain, stir and temp is 152... (it is easier than what I make it sound like)


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