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Old 02-19-2012, 05:35 AM   #1
Mar 2010
Beer Capital of the World
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Kal added some programming instructions to the Control Panel (Part 2) section.

You'll need to change a few settings on the PID controllers for our setup. These are one-time setting changes that are done and saved. The PIDs will remember whatever settings you enter even when powered off.

To modify the settings, hold down the SET button on the PID for 3 seconds to enter programming mode. The up/down arrow buttons are then used to change the current setting. The SET button is used to advance to the next setting. Once done, simply wait 10 seconds. All settings will be saved and the PID will return to the normal operating mode.

For the most part we use the default settings. There are only a few we modify:

-Sn: Tells the PID what type of temperature probe is used. Set this to 21 for all 3 PIDs to tell them that we're using RTD type temperature probes.
-Pb: This is the temperature calibration offset and is set differently for each PID based on how the specific RTD temperature probe measures. Every probe will have some error associated with it and this Pb setting is used to correct for this error. For example, if the probe measures 1 degree too high, you would set Pb to -1 to correct the error. The critical range brewers care about is typically the 140-160F mash temperature range so if possible, it's best to calibrate to a sample in this range. One way to do this is to use a known good temperature probe (such as the ThermoWorks ThermaPen) submersed in hot water along with the RTD probe. Use the difference between the two numbers to create the Pb offset and repeat for each PID controller. While RTD probes tend to drift less than others, we still recommend re-measuring once a year to make sure the RTD probe and PID combination is still measuring accurately. Note that the offset doesn't care if your PID is set to display temperature in Fahrenheit or Celsius, the offset value is simple added to whatever value is measured.
-FILT: This controls a digital filter that is used to smooth out possible noise that may exist when taking temperature readings. The default is 0 (no filter) such that the PID updates the temperature reading as fast possible. We set this to 5 to avoid oscillations between two numbers as the reading crosses over from one value to another. Higher values result in slower response time but this is not an issue in brewing as temperatures move slowly (relatively speaking).
-A-M: This controls whether automatic or manual (or both) PID control modes are allowed. The default value of 2 disables manual mode completely and is fine for the Hot Liquor Tank and Mash/Lauter Tun PIDs. For the Boil Kettle PID this should be set to 0 so that both manual and automatic modes can be used. We use manual mode exclusively. Some people may prefer to initially run the PID in automatic mode with a temperature set to just below boiling (like 208F) and turn on the alarm. The alarm will then sound when 208F is reached and the PID can be switched to manual mode to continue with boiling while carefully watching for a boilover.

Some other settings that may be useful:

-ALM1: This setting can be used to set a high temperature alarm. As the temperature passes through this set value going upwards our alarm will sound. Useful for knowing when the strike or sparge water temperature is reached in the Hot Liquor Tank, or when we're getting close to boil in the Boil Kettle.
-ALM2: This setting can be used to set a low temperature alarm. As the temperature passes through this set value going downwards our alarm will sound. We don't use this setting in our brewing setup, but it would be useful for brewers who use immersion chillers in the Boil Kettle to know when their yeast pitching temperature is reached.
-COOL: The default setting of 10 sets the PID controller into Fahrenheit and heat mode which is perfect for most North American brewers. If you prefer to display temperature in Celsius instead, set this to 2. If displaying in Celsius you should also set the dP setting to 1 such that 0.1 degree resolution is used. (Unfortunately the dP setting has no effect when the PID is displaying temperature in Fahrenheit).
-At (auto tuning): The first few times you brew the Hot Liquor Tank temperature may rise higher or drop lower than the temperature you set. This is normal. The Hot Liquor Tank PID will automatically learn the heating and cooling characteristics of your setup and tune itself over time to provide more precise temperature control. This learning can also be forced by having the PID perform auto tuning. Auto tuning only needs to be performed once. If anything drastic changes about your setup, consider performing it again. It is not required or relevant on the Mash/Lauter Tun or Boil Kettle PIDs. To perform auto tuning on the Hot Liquor Tank PID, do the following:
--Fill your Hot Liquor Tank with water and set the Hot Liquor Tank PID to a typical mash temperature of around 154F. (See Step 3: Heat Strike Water from our Brew Day: Step by Step article).
--Once the water is approximately 10 degrees below the 154F set temperature, set the At setting to 2. Auto tuning will automatically start after 10 seconds. For the next 10-20 minutes the PID will automatically turn the heating element on and off multiple times to see how fast temperature rises and drops in order to set the proportinal, integral, and derivative parameters automatically. The A/M light will blink during auto tuning. Once auto tuning is complete the At setting will return to the default value of 3.

Other settings exist but these are the only ones that we find important and/or have changed from the default settings. For more information, refer to your PID controller manual.
It helped me, so I assume it will help others like me.
"You can do anything you set your mind to when you have vision, determination, and an endless supply of beer."

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Old 02-19-2012, 02:07 PM   #2
Brew52's Avatar
Apr 2011
Buffalo, NY
Posts: 126
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Thanks for the post. It is very helpful to me as well.
H.P. MOORE Brewing Co.

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Old 02-21-2012, 09:18 PM   #3
Sep 2005
Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 456
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thank you

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Old 02-21-2012, 09:26 PM   #4
ylpaul2000's Avatar
Nov 2011
St. Charles, Illinois
Posts: 262
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This was just the info I was looking for, thanks!!!

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Old 02-21-2012, 10:03 PM   #5
CidahMastah's Avatar
Nov 2010
, New York
Posts: 4,242
Liked 42 Times on 39 Posts

Man I wish this was posted before I actually ended up figuring this all out by myself! ha

At least future generations will benefit
Man,... That's a lotta hooch!
Steel rig in progress
ebuild info

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