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Old 12-29-2012, 01:56 AM   #311
Brew-Dawg
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Jun 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysticmead View Post
what style of beer? are you dry hopping? are you doing anything post fermentation to clear the beer like cold crashing? gelatin? bio-fine clear?
It's 10 gals of Pale Ale so it is very evident - looks like a Wheat (but none used). I added 4 oz of Hops at knockout, so maybe that's it. I have never used a fining agent (never had to) and cold crashing was not possible. I kegged it all and it is very good. My wife says to serve it in a ceramic stein!

 
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:07 AM   #312
Mysticmead
 
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honestly, its just a visual thing. you can add bio-fine clear in the keg and give it 24-48 hours to drop clear or use gelatin in the keg. I use bio-fine if I want a crystal clear beer. If I don't really care of it is a bit cloudy, then I skip the finings (other than whirlfloc during the boil). serve it in ceramics if you think that people will judge the beer based on sight otherwise, serve and enjoy

 
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:40 PM   #313
heybonehead44
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Nov 2012
Challis, Idaho
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thanks everyone for the posts, i'll be sure to follow these guidelines when brewing my first all grain brew in a few weeks!

 
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:16 AM   #314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichBrewer View Post
All you need to do is figure 1 to 1 1/4 quarts of water per pound of grain for the mash and about 1/2 gallon of water per pound of grain for sparging.
:
Thanks for the post on this topic. I've done a half dozen batches of AG and keep coming up short on my OG numbers and am looking for some answers.

You suggest 1.25 qts/lb grain which is what I have been trying to do. I was reading Palmer's "How to Brew" tonight and he suggests 1.5 - 2.0 qts./lb. grain and was thinking maybe this was an area where I was off the beam a tad. This point seems critical to me. Could you please explain why the different opinion on this?

Thanks.
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:19 AM   #315
eyedoctodd
 
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You need to look at your recent numbers and determine if you are CONSISTENTLY low on your OG numbers. If so, then just adjust your efficiency in your calculations. I brew a variety of beers from pale ales to maibocks with target OG varying from 1.045 to 1.070 and they all have a hard limit of 10 gallons available space in my mash tun. Accordingly, my mash thickness (water to grain ratio) varies more than other things in my process, yet I still hit 78% efficiency. Here is also a place where the efficiency number doesn't matter (to a large extent) but consistency does. If you are hell bent on raising efficiency (I say place your efforts elsewhere for now) then look at your lauter tun deadspace and your lautering technique first.
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:15 PM   #316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyedoctodd View Post
If you are hell bent on raising efficiency (I say place your efforts elsewhere for now) then look at your lauter tun deadspace and your lautering technique first.
Your points were well taken. I've learned quite a lot through discussions on this site. That has helped me better understand what I'm reading so I revisited chapters on this subject in How to Brew. I felt I had a lot better handle on what I was doing and why as I made a batch of amber ale yesterday. And I hit the projected low side OG. And the wort tastes great.

I love it when a plan comes together!

Thanks!
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:58 PM   #317
jdauria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewkinger View Post
If I am truly understanding this AG thing, does this quote essentially mean that after I am all done with an AG attempt, if my gravity is low (which means that my efficiency was low?) that I merely add light DME until my gravity is up where I want it??
Yes. And here's how to do it...take your recipe's Target Starting Gravity (post boil) x target batch size to get targeted gravity units. Then take your actual gravity x your actual volume to get actual gravity points. Take the difference and divide by 45 (gravity units of DME) to get the amount in lbs of DME to add.

For example if Target Gravity was 1.061 and 5.5 gallons is batch size, then 61 x 5.5 = 335.5 gravity units. Then say your gravity was only 1.052 and you only had 5.25 gallons, (52 x 5.25 = 286 GU's). 335.5-286 = 49.5/45 = 1.1 lbs of DME to add.

Another option is to just keep boiling, you will have less beer, but will hit your target. In this case, you take your actual gravity units and divide by targeted gravity. So with the example of above 286 GU divided by 61 = 4.69 gallons. This is the amount you would boil down to in order to hit your gravity, so in this case, you would have .81 gallons less of beer.
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:06 PM   #318
TheFermentedCook
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May 2013
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Thank you for the info, did my first recipe yesterday and had an issue with how much liquid to sparge and mash with, I simply followed the recipe instructions and scaled it down. Fell a little short, but will use this ratio from now on!

 
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:14 AM   #319
gommy
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May 2013
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Quarts are they American or euro size

 
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:25 PM   #320
NickTheGreat
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Apr 2012
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I am about to do my first AG brew sometime soon. I have all the parts to make my mash tun, and will do that sometime this weekend.

I've done two extracts, and a partial mash (all from kits). A Red Ale, Wheat, and a tribute to the New Glarus Spotted Cow.

What would be a good suggestion for a good starting AG recipe? I am scared to start this, and if I had a good recipe to follow I'd feel a bit better

 
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