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Old 10-10-2011, 02:24 AM   #261
2BeerSpeer
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Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddrrseio View Post
is there any difference between igloo's 10 gallon coolers? the one commonly sold includes 'industrial' in the label but the one for $40 at walmart does not. the walmart one also contains a drink dispenser, which i won't need.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Igloo-Beve...allon/14550424

http://www.amazon.com/400-Coolers-Ca.../dp/B00002N6SB
I use this cooler (from wmart) with the 9" false bottom for my mlt and never lose over 1* in an hour mash!

 
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:01 AM   #262
ChuckCollins
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I have the 10 Gallon Igloo ,I think they are all ok ,heck they all our made in China!!

 
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:13 AM   #263
ddrrseio
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Sep 2011
Palo Alto, CA
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thanks!

i had ordered it plus northern brewer's SS cooler conversion kit and the 12" kettle screen tube. the tube was slightly too long for the igloo but not beyond correction with pliers. i made a pumpkin ale today and the entire setup worked great.

 
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:30 AM   #264
HerbieHomebrew
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Sep 2011
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Thanks for all this. Im new to AG, so found all this very helpful.



 
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:09 AM   #265
dooman333
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Agreed! excellent stuff in this one!
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:08 PM   #266
Justggw
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Mar 2011
Springtown, Texas
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My first AG set up was 2 5gal. Rubbermaid Coolers. After a while I thought, why not go bigger? So I went to a sporting good store and bought a 10 gal Igloo cooler for $50 and put my mash fittings on it.
The Igloo held the temp better and I was happy.
All of a sudden I started getting stuck sparges.
I couldn't find the problem and plenty of air would go throgh when blew back on the tubing.
Luckily I wouuld siphon out the liquid from the mash and saved 3 brews.
After taking the false bottom out, I FOUND THE PROBLEM! The bottom of the cooler separated from the insulation and buckled upward so it wou obstruct the flow to the valve. Put a dome on a dome and nothing happens.
So now that 10 gallon cooler will hold sparge water for now.
My experience.
JustGGW

 
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:24 PM   #267
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Jul 2009
Hanover, MA
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thanx for the sticky. very easy rules to live by. I'm starting all-grain this winter so this is very helpful
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:51 AM   #268
garysherck
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Dec 2011
Cleveland, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starderup View Post
One more thing: If you grind your own grain, make sure your cordless drill batteries are charged.
I am positive I charged them both last week, but I guess when they get two or three years old, they lose the charge even if you don't use them. The one in the drill wouldn't even turn. The backup went about half a turn.
Thankfully, I got the Barley Crusher, which comes with a hand crank. It took ten minutes instead of 90 seconds, but I got my batch done.
Not to completely change the subject matter of this informative subject, but the Barley Crusher gain mill caught my attention. My LBS is a decent driving distance. I checked out the Barley Crusher website, and like what I see: made in the USA which is important; even made in Michigan.

From the Starderup post, I see he likes the mill. Appreciate any thoughts before I place an order. They come in two sizes: 7 & 15 pound hoppers. Any preferences. Thanks.

 
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:55 AM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garysherck View Post
Not to completely change the subject matter of this informative subject, but the Barley Crusher gain mill caught my attention. My LBS is a decent driving distance. I checked out the Barley Crusher website, and like what I see: made in the USA which is important; even made in Michigan.

From the Starderup post, I see he likes the mill. Appreciate any thoughts before I place an order. They come in two sizes: 7 & 15 pound hoppers. Any preferences. Thanks.
love mine..got the 7lb model.. the 15lb would be nice for loading the hopper once on smaller beers but really it takes VERY little effort to reload the hopper. If you plan on powering it a cordless drill ins't going to be up to the task.. just get a cheap corded drill from harbor freight.

 
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:44 AM   #270
garysherck
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Dec 2011
Cleveland, OH
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I am doing 5 gal. AG batches. I looked for the answer to this question in the next few pages, and may have missed it.

I am not sure how many gallons of water is under my false bottom in both the Mash Tun and BK. Therefore, it seems to me in making the water calculations for both the mash and sparge water, should this be considered as an "extra" amount needed? I want to have 6.5 - 7 gallons of wort in the BK before the boil. I will keep a record of how many gallons is lost during the 90 min. boil, but I do not want to come up short. Or does that really matter?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildKnight View Post
I apologize if this question was already covered, as I didn't get through all 20 pages.

But, my false bottom hold two gallons of water under it. So, if I stick to 1-1.25 quarts per pound of grain, then the top of my mash will not be submerged in water. How much will my efficiency be hurt if I use too much mash water? Also, is it really a big problem if I just boil longer to remove the excess water? (that is, assuming I am not brewing a very pale pils for which I do not want excessive caramelized sugars)?

 
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