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Old 11-09-2009, 06:16 PM   #131
jayareo
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Nov 2009
Boston
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First, I have been looking for an answer to this everywhere ... If I missed it, apologies for re-posting this.

I am coming up to speed with a few new gadgets in my brewing arsenal. My new CFC is the reason for the posting - how can I start a nice strong siphon??? I used it this weekend and only managed a weak flow at best.

I am trying to get the wort from the kettle (no spigot) to the CFC and into fermentor (pail or carboy).

Help??

-jayareo

 
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:11 PM   #132
masonsjax
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I don't think you want to siphon boiling wort. The CFC would probably be enough resistance to not allow a good flow if any. A CFC is meant to be used gravity fed via a spigot, or circulated with a pump.

 
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:07 PM   #133
jayareo
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Nov 2009
Boston
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Yeah. Well short of now buying a pump (which SWMBO will consider a hanging offense) I wonder if i could simply pour wort into bottling bucket with spigot and then use gravity feed .... ?

 
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:07 AM   #134
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Could you add a spigot to your kettle?

 
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:22 AM   #135
pretzelb
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Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masonsjax View Post
Emgesp1: I make my 5 gal batches (6.5 pre boil) in a 10 gal kettle. The hot break has boiled over once when I was not paying attention, but it usually gets up there pretty high. An 8 gallon pot you will have to watch very closely. Get some fermcap to kill the foam and you should be fine.
Shoot. So the 8g pot I just got isn't really enough? I could send it back but that's discouraging. I should have come here first.

Quote:
For calculating volumes needed, I take first runnings, and measure with a dipstick, then I know exactly how much more water I need. At that point grain is saturated, so what goes in = what comes out. Don't over think it. Hope that helps.
Your approach makes more sense but it would mean you had to wait for the first running to finish before starting to heat the second batch of water. You could guess but then we're back to trying to figure it out ahead of time and worrying about kettle size. But if I start going down this path I need to look into a dipstick to measure volume in the kettle - seems like a very handy thing to have.

 
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Old 11-11-2009, 01:40 PM   #136
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If you use a little fermcap, or just watch closely and keep a spray bottle handy, you'll be ok. You can always upgrade to a larger kettle later, and use this one for heating water, and for extract batches or something.

I know that I usually need about 4-5 gallons after first runnings. I heat up 6 gallons (2 pots, 3 gal each) just in case and add the batch sparge water using a gallon pitcher so its easy to see how much I'm adding.

 
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Old 11-11-2009, 03:39 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pretzelb View Post
Your approach makes more sense but it would mean you had to wait for the first running to finish before starting to heat the second batch of water. You could guess but then we're back to trying to figure it out ahead of time and worrying about kettle size. But if I start going down this path I need to look into a dipstick to measure volume in the kettle - seems like a very handy thing to have.
Nope. All you have to do is make sure you have enough sparge water heating in the first place. Brewing a five gallon batch? If you heat five gallons for sparging, you know you'll have enough water, no matter how much absorption you have in the grain bed. Leftover hot water is never a problem. Add a little Oxyclean, and you can clean up during the boil.

FWIW, I did my first AG brew in a 7.5 gallon enamelware kettle. It was a tight fit, but by watching it like a hawk and keeping a spray bottle of water handy, I was able to boil in it without a boilover. However, life got a lot easier after I bought a couple of decomissioned kegs from New Belgium. 15.5 gallons is a nice kettle size.


 
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:59 PM   #138
peterfuse
 
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Can i just say thank you for this advice, you legend. Just completed my 15th or so all grain batch and increased my efficiency from 70% to 78%. All along ive been to scared to sparge too much in fear of extracting tannins, but going by your volumes i nailed it.

Only thing is now my beers gona be stronger, not a bad complaint.
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Old 11-23-2009, 03:01 PM   #139
jayareo
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Nov 2009
Boston
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Thank you all for the information - advice, opinions, etc.

Happy to report that I was able to cool the wort briefly outside (MA temps yesterday were cool enough / kind enough to oblige), then transfer / strain to a bottling bucket. From there the gravity feed was perfect.

Put the cooled wort (64 F !!!) into the fermentor with no hitches. Man a CFC just whips A@$ on hot wort :-)

After doing this, I realized that I could also - VERY easily - use my cooler (aka mash tun) to accomplish the same feat. All i would need to do is get the grains out sometime during the boil. Will likely try that next time.

 
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Old 11-24-2009, 02:47 AM   #140
dregus
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Dec 2008
So. California, California
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On my first batch of AG brew I accidentally messed up the mash temp. I had the mash temp around 165 but during sparging I noticed it dropped to about 160. So I turned on the burner and then got called away for a minutes. When i returned the mash temp was around 185. What are the affects on the batch?

 
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