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Old 02-14-2012, 01:53 AM   #1
vaheel
 
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Mar 2011
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I plan on using this box for my basic ebrew build that will consist of 1 PID controlling two elements (one at a time) with a main power switch, e-stop, and two pumps (using only one for now). The box for the control panel (inside dimensions are 12x10x5) is shown below. I would like to start ordering pieces this week. Will I need a Din rail for this back plate? I am hoping that P-J will see this and suggest a wiring diagram.
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:05 AM   #2
moparx12
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Apr 2010
charlotte
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i would have a breaker for each pump and sure you could use a din rail style mount for that. as far as the e stop p-j has a great diagram that uses the GFCI function to trip the circuit without using a contactor.

 
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:26 PM   #3
JRems
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Nov 2010
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You do realize the auber pid is nearly 5" long. Is there enough room for it to fit?

 
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:39 PM   #4
P-J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRems View Post
You do realize the auber pid is nearly 5" long. Is there enough room for it to fit?
Dimension 48 x 48 x100 mm (WxHxD)
100 mm = 3.937 inches

 
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:54 PM   #5
P-J
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This should work for your setup.
Click on the image to see a fullscale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")


 
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:14 PM   #6
vaheel
 
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Mar 2011
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P-J,

Thank you for taking time to do this. It it greatly appreciated!
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Old 02-14-2012, 04:12 PM   #7
HopDr
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Nov 2011
Elkins Park, PA
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I am doing an almost identical build now, sort of a simplified version of Kal's. I was planning on using 2 elements/2 PIDs but otherwise pretty much the same set up as you. I thought about doing 1 PID, but unless I am missing something (which is very possible) you will still need 2 SSRs/heatsinks, so I figured another PID was about $40, and will allow continuous monitoring of temps even when not firing the element. So it will save me the trouble/expense of putting regular thermometers in the HLT/BK, so it might actually be cheaper.

Please keep us posted on your progress.

 
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:10 PM   #8
brewhokie
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Dec 2010
Seattle, Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopDr View Post
I am doing an almost identical build now, sort of a simplified version of Kal's. I was planning on using 2 elements/2 PIDs but otherwise pretty much the same set up as you. I thought about doing 1 PID, but unless I am missing something (which is very possible) you will still need 2 SSRs/heatsinks, so I figured another PID was about $40, and will allow continuous monitoring of temps even when not firing the element. So it will save me the trouble/expense of putting regular thermometers in the HLT/BK, so it might actually be cheaper.

Please keep us posted on your progress.
Actually you only need one SSR with the setup PJ showed above. Also since you pretty much always run your boil kettle in manual mode you would not see boil kettle temperature anyways.

One other added bonus is you don't need a probe in the boil kettle, because like I said above your running the boil in manual. Unless your planning on do back to back batches where you would run the HTL and BK at the same time there really is no need for 2 PIDS, SSR's and RTD's. Overall it saves close to $100 and really does not limit functionality. The only thing you might sacrifice is a bit of bling.

 
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:35 PM   #9
stevehaun
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You could go even cheaper and just have one switch and outlet for the BK and HLT. Just turn off the switch, unplug the HLT and plug in the BK. This would also decrease (but not eliminate) your risk of dry firing an element.

 
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:11 AM   #10
vaheel
 
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Mar 2011
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P-J,

Would the wiring change much if I were to add two lights showing which element was powered up?





Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
This should work for your setup.
Click on the image to see a fulscale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

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