Basic electric BK - Home Brew Forums
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Basic electric BK

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 02-02-2012, 10:58 PM   #1
Kosch
Recipes 
 
Sep 2011
Spokane, WA
Posts: 216
Liked 9 Times on 8 Posts



I've been tossing around a few ideas of how I want to move to a full boil/AG setup. Wasn't liking the idea of using a turkey fryer outside, and would need to buy a new stove (and have a gas line run) to get a decent burner.

After building a heatstick and seeing how well it worked, I looked around here and also read through theelectricbrewery.com site and realized that electric may be the way to go!

So, here's the thing. I'm not looking to go to a full electric system with 3 kettles and all the pumps etc. I really just want to do an electric brew kettle. I just want to use a cooler MLT and then just have a single pot for BK and HLT.

I will get a 40qt megapot to use for this. I figure I can build the 5500w ULWD element setup into it and then just use my oven outlet.

tl;dr -
I figure I may want some control over the element in case it boils too vigorously. Should I go with the PID and SSR setup for this, or is there a simpler/cheaper way since I don't need temp control?

Anything else I'm missing? (I know, GFCI for sure)

Thanks!

Kosch



 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2012, 11:50 PM   #2
mattd2
Recipes 
 
Sep 2009
Papamoa, New Zealand
Posts: 3,720
Liked 307 Times on 245 Posts


2 ways to think about it:
1) have a big element that will get up to temp/boil quickly but need at least a PWM circuit to turn it down during the boil, or
2) Mount an appropriote size element and have it run full bore but take longer to get to temp/boil.
#2 is cheaper but less flexibal, #1 is more expensice (PWM circuit, box, etc.) but will serve you for a long time since you will mostly repopose a lot of it if you do move to a full electric system.
I have a element in my BK that is 2x 2kW elements in one both are just wired to plugs that go straight into the wall socket (well straight into a plug in GFCI), I run both to get to boil then switch one off for 5 gallon batch.



 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2012, 12:09 AM   #3
gitapaynts
Recipes 
 
Oct 2007
Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 17
Liked 4 Times on 3 Posts


Remember, With the 5500w element you will need access to 240v to reach that wattage. Depending on if your brewing area already has access to a 240v outlet (dryer or range), you will have to run the wiring, which can be several dollars a foot and adds up fast.

Off the top of my head I don't think you can get the most simple control panel built + electric lines/gfci for less than 500 bucks. One plus is that all the components will be easily reused as you move to a full electric or more elaborate setup.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2012, 01:37 AM   #4
Fizzycist
Recipes 
 
Dec 2011
Idaho Falls, Idaho
Posts: 458
Liked 50 Times on 33 Posts


I want to do the same thing Kosch. I've been looking at these high wattage induction burners, mostly because the heat sticks sound like a pain to clean and still take an hour to boil. It looks like I can get a 3000 W induction burner for about the price of two heatsticks.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2012, 01:51 AM   #5
runningweird
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Recipes 
 
Dec 2009
State Line, PA, Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,073
Liked 90 Times on 66 Posts


i just put together a simple PWM board and wired it to a SSR and then to an outlet - a bit more complicated than that but once you do some reading its pretty easy.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm...us-how-221301/

I bought my SSR on amazon, and got my elements from a guy on the classifieds section.

I have done three batches with it so far and it works great .just be sure to ground everything and use a spa panel gfci
__________________
My 6 Tap Long Draw Tower Build:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/long...-tower-271578/

 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2012, 02:00 AM   #6
mattd2
Recipes 
 
Sep 2009
Papamoa, New Zealand
Posts: 3,720
Liked 307 Times on 245 Posts


Whats everyones thoughts on using GFCI extension cords instead of getting a spa panel installed?

 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2012, 04:12 AM   #7
l3asturd
Recipes 
 
Dec 2011
Visalia, CA
Posts: 461
Liked 10 Times on 8 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by mattd2 View Post
Whats everyones thoughts on using GFCI extension cords instead of getting a spa panel installed?
Those are 12/3 cords. You could only run one element per extension cord, and you'd have to go with 120V, or a 240V element used at 120V.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2012, 05:36 AM   #8
Kosch
Recipes 
 
Sep 2011
Spokane, WA
Posts: 216
Liked 9 Times on 8 Posts


Cool, thanks everyone! I think I'm going to look at the PWM route, looks inexpensive and fairly simple.

I'm planning to use the range outlet, so I'll likely just get a spa panel and mount it above there, and unplug the oven to plug in the panel when I'm brewing.

Tax return season is upon us, looks like I've got myself a project!

Thanks,

Kosch

 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2012, 02:21 PM   #9
ohararp
Recipes 
 
Mar 2011
Hampton, VA
Posts: 66
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts


You can get 240v inline gfci cables. I don't see why you couldn't use that. I went with a gfci breaker to get 4 wire 240v.



 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cheap basic setup cork44 Electric Brewing 61 10-08-2013 02:29 AM
Need help with an electric hlt bribo179 Electric Brewing 7 09-28-2011 02:46 PM
How Much Electric mykayel Electric Brewing 5 06-28-2011 11:29 PM
Electric vs. Gas finger123 Electric Brewing 7 04-10-2011 03:48 PM
Electric HLT Keg drunkenmonkeybrewing Electric Brewing 7 04-05-2011 08:06 PM


Forum Jump