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Old 02-29-2012, 04:23 PM   #111
Texan
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May 2011
San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 49
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I have alot of guys asking for me to bend thier SS coils, and I have a hand written list of them. This is becoming a larger project that I first anticipated and I am in the process of setting up a way to handle requests better.

I don't mind the Pm's just understand that the way I am doing it now is extremely slow due to the business side, not the actual work of coiling. I am going in order of PM's recieved, and being this is a side gig for me that I did not see coming, I am playing catch up.

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Old 02-29-2012, 04:37 PM   #112
Texan
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May 2011
San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 49
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FYI,

Dover97 lives close to the house and he came over to have his coil made. After we finished his coil we put it in his Keggle that he had brought with him.

He had an electric set up with the heating element already installed. This raised his coupling penetration height on his keggle where the coil would attach.

This gave him a 12" height from coil inlet to coil outlet. The 50' coil could be compressed with wires or zip ties to just fit into this dimension but it was a pretty tight fit. We figured that a 25' coil in this application might work better.

He is going to use a tubing cutter to cut his coil down to achieve more of a custom fit to his keggle.

 
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:13 PM   #113
l3asturd
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Dec 2011
Visalia, CA
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Looking forward to my turn! haha

 
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:24 PM   #114
forcabrew
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Nov 2010
somewhere, Ct
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texan
FYI,

Dover97 lives close to the house and he came over to have his coil made. After we finished his coil we put it in his Keggle that he had brought with him.

He had an electric set up with the heating element already installed. This raised his coupling penetration height on his keggle where the coil would attach.

This gave him a 12" height from coil inlet to coil outlet. The 50' coil could be compressed with wires or zip ties to just fit into this dimension but it was a pretty tight fit. We figured that a 25' coil in this application might work better.

He is going to use a tubing cutter to cut his coil down to achieve more of a custom fit to his keggle.
Tell Dover97 I'll buy the remaining 25 ft. I have the same electric keggle hlt

 
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:09 PM   #115
Texan
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May 2011
San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forcabrew View Post
Tell Dover97 I'll buy the remaining 25 ft. I have the same electric keggle hlt
Not sure how much he is going to use, we just thought 25' would have fit better.

Forcabrew, what is the distance between your inlet and outlet?

 
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:44 PM   #116
blakeseven
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Oct 2011
manassas, va
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Great minds think alike I PM'ed him just before you . I have yet to build my hlt so I can be flexible. What do you suggest for hight in a keg glue?

 
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:51 PM   #117
forcabrew
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Nov 2010
somewhere, Ct
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texan

Not sure how much he is going to use, we just thought 25' would have fit better.

Forcabrew, what is the distance between your inlet and outlet?
I haven't even drilled my HLT yet for the herms coil so I'm flexible. My last few weeks have been spent building my control box

 
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:19 PM   #118
V-Twin
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Sep 2010
Livermore, California
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Fellow Brewers. If you are somewhat handy and want to build your own DIY tubing bender/coiling device I have some directions you can download (PDF) on how I built mine. I was able to reduce my 23" diameter coil down to ~11" diameter with no kinks. Cost about $70 for materials, a few tools, and about an hour to build.
Link to Build Instructions: http://home.comcast.net/~bkerby/DIYTubingBender.pdf




Enjoy!

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Old 03-02-2012, 10:44 PM   #119
kal
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Nov 2006
Ottawa, Canada
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Wow. Nice work on the instructions. Good job!

Kal

 
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:48 PM   #120
l3asturd
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Dec 2011
Visalia, CA
Posts: 461
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Wow thanks for sharing V-twin! Does the coil look nice and uniform when it's compressed down to 11"? Like professional looking, if you know what I mean? I was just in Livermore today too.

I was thinking of a way to build something similar, but also motorizing it, and using a rubber or soft plastic pulley that would pull the tubing through, but this seems simple enough that I may not want to motorize it after all.

One last thing, the very last thing on the parts list (1-1/2" x 1/4" x 2ft) doesn't say what it is. Although with a little problem solving I figured out it was the flat steel.

 
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