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Old 12-02-2012, 12:00 AM   #61
mikeandortina
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Dec 2011
Concord, CA
Posts: 3
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My second attempt at this one is in primary now. First attempt was right on. This one comes from MoreBeer.com. They were given this recipie by Vinnie himself.

http://morebeer.com/view_product/184...tract_Beer_Kit

Great supplier too (No. I'm not an employee!) They have the kits available for shipping.

 
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:34 AM   #62
doublehaul
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Oct 2011
nunya, xx
Posts: 550
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What is everyone's OG and FG and what size of starter/how many yeast packs are you using? I am trying to see what size of starter I need to make (using wyeast 1056). My software is telling me 1.072 OG and 1.018 FG with 75% attenuation. I think I need to get the FG down lower.

 
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:34 AM   #63
RichBenn
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Aug 2009
Tahoe
Posts: 836
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For those going to try the clone, this is the real deal (1st page), handed out from Vinnie at a conference, and can be found at Beerdujoir.com in PDF form.

They don't specify malt/sugar quantities, but rather percentages along with O.G. So one needs to adjust for their own efficiency to hit the 1.070 target.

I've made this several times, and it is pretty much spot on, except for more aromatics in mine vs. the only place near me that serves it draft. Maybe if I got some fresh at the brewery it would be a better test. I love this beer! It needs to be drunk young to appreciate the nuances.

Rumour is Vinnie has changed this recipe over time, for example, adding Amarillo and such. Don't know if that's true or not, but what is brewing without tinkering?

At any rate, this is a "hop candy" beer, and pretty much all light color IIPAs over 100 IBUs calculated get into the realm of "hop candy". For those that like maltiness, look elsewhere....

Oh, and I looked up the city water profile where Russian River Brewing is, and adjusted my water profile to match. Might make a difference, who knows.

 
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:11 AM   #64
fifthcircle
 
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Apr 2011
Lincoln, NE
Posts: 233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublehaul View Post
What is everyone's OG and FG and what size of starter/how many yeast packs are you using? I am trying to see what size of starter I need to make (using wyeast 1056). My software is telling me 1.072 OG and 1.018 FG with 75% attenuation. I think I need to get the FG down lower.
OG 1.070
FG I forget...lol
I used a 1600ml starter, with one vial of yeast, 24hrs after starting the starter. The batch was going nuts by 12hrs. No need for two packets if you make a good starter.

 
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:30 PM   #65
ibpick
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Nov 2011
rancho cucamonga, ca
Posts: 7

I have seen two responses to the " when toads corn sugar" question. In one of the recipes from vinnie he states to "add corn sugar and bring to boil." I have also seen instructions to add corn sugar the last 10 minutes of boil. Any thoughts? 2nd question is for the hop additions at flame out. Do those stay in just while it is cooling down or do they transfer to fermenter? Brewin this weekend. Thanks!

 
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:31 PM   #66
ibpick
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Nov 2011
rancho cucamonga, ca
Posts: 7

Quote:
Originally Posted by ibpick
I have seen two responses to the " when toads corn sugar" question. In one of the recipes from vinnie he states to "add corn sugar and bring to boil." I have also seen instructions to add corn sugar the last 10 minutes of boil. Any thoughts? 2nd question is for the hop additions at flame out. Do those stay in just while it is cooling down or do they transfer to fermenter? Brewin this weekend. Thanks!
That's "when to add" not toads.

 
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:29 PM   #67
fifthcircle
 
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Apr 2011
Lincoln, NE
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Hah, toads....

Sugar.
I added for the full boil. I don't think it will effect anything if you add it later. There is some adjustment for hop utilization in regard to gravity, but I doubt anyone could tell on a small scale brew.

Flame out hops.
Add at the very end of boil, ie: when you are terminating the heat source. These hops do NOT go into the fermenter. Just keep them in while you whirlpool or chill etc.

 
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:00 PM   #68
ibpick
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Nov 2011
rancho cucamonga, ca
Posts: 7

Perfect thanks!

 
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:01 PM   #69
mooshimanx
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Jan 2012
san diego, california
Posts: 215
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To add to the above, I add my corn sugar a little bit after I throw a Whirlfloc in the boil and right before I throw the chiller into the boil to sanitize it. I have my doubts there is any difference. The only reason I've ever read to not just throw it in directly at the beginning is due to the possibility of caramelizing the sugar which I personally think is highly unlikely, but I just did it that way because why not.

To my tastes (and I regularly drink Pliny at local watering holes), this beer tastes extremely similar to the commercial beer when properly fermented and with the right yeast and hop character. I won't say its indistinguishable since I didn't do a side-by-side, however.

I'm not sure why the OP says to use 12 lbs. of 2 row and .5 of the Carapils/C40. The amount should be 13.25 2 row and .6 of the Carapils/C40 because it is a 6 gallon batch designed to yield 5 gallons of finished beer. If you brew less than a 6 gallon batch, you will end up with something like 4 gallons and change due to the loss of wort/beer to hop trub in both the boil and the dry hop. I personally bumped the 2 row to 14 pounds and I still undershot the gravity by ~2-4 points, but that's just because I always get lower 70s efficiency.

 
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Old 12-08-2012, 06:52 PM   #70
LAbrewer
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Nov 2012
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fifthcircle View Post
Hah, toads....

Sugar.
I added for the full boil. I don't think it will effect anything if you add it later. There is some adjustment for hop utilization in regard to gravity, but I doubt anyone could tell on a small scale brew.

Flame out hops.
Add at the very end of boil, ie: when you are terminating the heat source. These hops do NOT go into the fermenter. Just keep them in while you whirlpool or chill etc.
Why not?

 
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