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Old 08-17-2013, 04:52 PM   #191
stonebrewer
Invented the IPL
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Mar 2012
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I recommend you screen your beer every step of the way. This is how I do it:

- I have a stainless steel hop screen, basically a cylinder 6" wide by 14" deep. When I transfer the mash to the boil kettle, it goes through this screen and captures any loose particles, husks, etc.
- I put my hops in the basket during the boil to keep the hop gunk mostly out of the final product
- I recirculate after flame out through the basket; this captures the break material and most anything else that was created/added to the boil
- I have a screened funnel for my transfer to the carboy - this used to clog badly, now I only get a small bit of sediment in 12 gallons of wort

I end up with extremely clean, clear wort in my carboys. Add yeast and the beer ends up very clean.

- When I dry hop, I use a similar stainless steel hopper in the carboy and/or keg to put my dry hops in.

This is how I did my PtE clone that is about to be tapped (CAN'T WAIT!). It is very clean and when I washed the yeast there was almost zero trub. There is a thread on here (search for hop gunk) that details these devices. A couple of folks are making them these days and I think they were a great addition to my brew setup.

Cheers!

 
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:35 AM   #192
sok454
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Dec 2011
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Second dry hop in tonight. Fg fell to 1.008 solooking around 8.8% abv. Tasted good.
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Started brewing October 2012 with the Irish Car Bomb Stout (extract)

June 2013 Moved to BIAB/Partial Mash

August 2013 Moved to Full Mash 5 Gal MT

August 2013 Russian Imperial Stout "Time Warp Tongue Tickler" won Gold at local brew competition. Only 12 weeks from brew date!!!

 
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:52 PM   #193
keezerj
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Jul 2013
tampa, fl
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I just brewed this one yesterday and today it was fermenting so much that It was foaming out of the airlock and popped the lid on the bucket up a bit. I've never had that before so in a panic I removed about 1/2 gallon of beer from the bucket to lower the volume. Only later did I realize that people use blow off tubes for such a situation. I also missed my og by about 10 points so I had to add some dme to bring it up. I hope this batch still comes out good after all these problems.

 
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:44 PM   #194
sethlovex
 
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Jan 2013
, Central mass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keezerj
I just brewed this one yesterday and today it was fermenting so much that It was foaming out of the airlock and popped the lid on the bucket up a bit. I've never had that before so in a panic I removed about 1/2 gallon of beer from the bucket to lower the volume. Only later did I realize that people use blow off tubes for such a situation. I also missed my og by about 10 points so I had to add some dme to bring it up. I hope this batch still comes out good after all these problems.
Relax don't worry you know the rest

 
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:03 PM   #195
keezerj
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Jul 2013
tampa, fl
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Should I move this to a secondary and add dry hops when fermentation is complete or when fermentation is almost complete to scrub out any o2? I'm afraid if I move it off the yeast cake it won't attenuate all the way. (I usually don't secondary but was going to for this one)

 
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Old 08-23-2013, 03:06 PM   #196
MMJfan
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May 2012
Wooster, OH, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keezerj View Post
Should I move this to a secondary and add dry hops when fermentation is complete or when fermentation is almost complete to scrub out any o2? I'm afraid if I move it off the yeast cake it won't attenuate all the way. (I usually don't secondary but was going to for this one)
There really isn't a right or wrong answer to this. It's basically about personal preference. I never rack my beers to secondary and never have had any problems and this one was no different. But there are others who always rack to secondary and would probably encourage you to do that. Really it's up to what makes you most comfortable in the end...

 
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Old 08-23-2013, 03:12 PM   #197
sok454
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Dec 2011
chatham, il
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I did what MMjFan... but had the same question to rack or not.

My question MMJfan is do you go and immediately bottle after the 2nd dry hop? Or do you remove the hops and then cold crash it for 24-48 hours?

 
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:25 PM   #198
MMJfan
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May 2012
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My timeline is usually to let it finish fermenting which is generally 7-10 days. If I'm not dry hopping, I just let the beer ride in my fermenting bucket (primary) for about 2 weeks total from when I rack the wort to my fermenting bucket to when I rack to my bottling bucket.

If I'm dry hopping, I'll add the hops in a hop sock tied to some fishing line to the handle of my bucket. I do this after the 7-10 days of fermenting. I generally will dry hop for 5-7 days. I then remove the hop socks and rack to my bottling bucket for bottling.

I've never cold crashed, but I am actually trying it for this brew just to see if I can get a bit more clarity. We'll see if I get any different results or not...

 
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:41 PM   #199
stonebrewer
Invented the IPL
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If you want this super clear, fine it with gelatin.

Cheers!

 
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:52 PM   #200
MMJfan
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May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonebrewer View Post
If you want this super clear, fine it with gelatin.

Cheers!
Hmm. I might give that a try next time. Bottling this bad boy today so I don't have time to fine this batch...

 
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