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Old 05-15-2007, 12:40 AM   #11
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For the full boils- it's tough to cool 5 gallons any other way!


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Old 05-15-2007, 12:49 AM   #12
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gotcha

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Old 05-15-2007, 12:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gator
are you referring to the 10 gallon size and needing a chiller........or, you need a chiller for full boils?

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Any full boils....you need to cool as quickly as possible and that is not possible without a chiller when you get into that much hot water.
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Old 05-15-2007, 01:52 AM   #14
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How about the oxygenation comment? How do you folks handle aeration? Is the air pump with an air stone adequate?
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:50 AM   #15
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I use this

Ten bucks and aeration complete. Also makes transferring from kettle to carboy super easy. A lot of people use a funnel with screen to aerate and then shake the crap out of it, too.
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:31 AM   #16
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Don't forget, add most of your extract in the last 15min of the boil!
Everybody's doing it!
Late extract addition
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritz_monroe
How about the oxygenation comment? How do you folks handle aeration? Is the air pump with an air stone adequate?
It really depends on what kind of yeast you like to use and whether or not you brew a lot of big beers (OGs of 1.060+)

Big beers + liquid yeast using a "splashing" type of aeration is going to be a really puny ferment. You really need an O2 system.

On the opposite end, dry yeast or starter pitching + small beers will ferment with a really small amount of dissolved O2 which you can get by splashing and shaking.

You'll get a lot o people claiming things work out fine using all kinds of methods which puts this into the catagory of anecdotal but here's what most people agree on with yeast and aeration:

1. Bigger beers require higher numbers of healthy viable yeast in order to hit "expected" attenuations.

2. The more viable cells you pitch, the less O2 needs to be dissolved in the wort. This makes sense in that an O2 rich environment encourages reproduction. If you have enough cells to begin with, they only need SOME O2 to store energy for the ferment.

3. Dry yeasts can be pitched into most beers with moderate O2 saturation while liquids (without making a starter) need a bit more O2.

etc. etc. Bottom line, if you like liquid yeast, I'd suggest making starters or injecting pure O2 (or inject pure O2 into your starter).
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:52 PM   #18
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Ive heard that with full boils you dont want to use as much bittering hops due to the higher utilization. Most people Ive talked to about it say to decrease your bitterings by about 20%. Anybody have any experience with this?


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