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Old 01-17-2012, 09:28 PM   #11
TheDom
 
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Nice man, no hijack worries, thanks for sharing.

No wiring work today, but I did try my hand at some silver soldering. Used the kit that Airgas sells, with the Harris stay-brite solder and sray-clean liquid flux. I will probably add more solder to get it flush and pretty with the wall of the vessel, but for a first crack at it I am pretty happy.

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Old 01-17-2012, 10:35 PM   #12
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I added a little bit more solder, and am happier with it now. After a little sanding and BKF it should look pretty nice!

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Old 01-19-2012, 03:08 PM   #13
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Got my factorymation order yesterday, and have decided that no matter what level ninja I were, all these components just won't fit in the ammo can. I figured it would be a challenge, but this just isn't worth fighting with.

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Instead of getting inline fuses for the P-J E-stop and the PID power, I got 2 1amp breakers. I decided to go with a 20a breaker instead of the 16 mentioned earlier to leave some room for a bigger RIMS element in the future, and did the standard 25a 2-pole breaker for the 5500W BK element. The only thing I am concerned about is my breaker for my pump. I read that the march 809 will draw 1.4 or so amps, and went with a 4a breaker because I wanted to power the illuminated switch for both the pump and RIMS, as well as the coil for the contractor that will switch the RIMS element power on the same circuit. I basically want the rims element power switch and contactor coil to only get power when the pump is running. After placing my order I read that pumps can draw a little extra current at startup. Did I cut it too close with the 4a breaker?

 
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:41 PM   #14
Bsquared
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Nice soldering job,

did you dimple this into the keg? To me it look like some people where dimpling so it was dimpled to the outside.

Im going to re-build my HLT this weekend using a dimpling tool too, and was thinking it would be much easier to solder if it dimpils into the keg. Is this the way you did this?

 
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:46 PM   #15
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Yeah, I dimpled into the keg. My thinking was that the ease of doing the soldering far outweighed the potential benefits of dimpling the other way. Plus, the outside will look nicer the outside once I sand it up.

Edit: Thanks!

 
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:39 PM   #16
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I think 4a will be fine on the pump... they draw more at startup but the breakers handle more at non sustained loads, unless you got a fast blow breaker.

Looking good BTW!

 
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:40 AM   #17
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Well, I got a B curve breaker, which I think counts as fast blow (throw in this case?) Hopefully it will work, if not I can always get a bigger one.

I pulled the cover off of my main breaker panel yesterday to make sure everything inside was as it appeared on the outside.

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Nothing goofy that I could see/recognize. I will probably be putting the new 50a breaker in this morning, and running the cable/conduit. It just depends on how happy my drill is with putting holes in block. If not, I should be able to make some progress on the control panel.

Thus far I have cut some DIN rails for my terminal blocks and breakers, and attached the range cord.
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:07 PM   #18
TheDom
 
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I'm starting to get stuff mounted in the box, and I have a question about my breakers. They are the CHINT miniature breakers from factorymation, and they have one terminal marked "load" and the other marked "line." To install them according to those labels would mean I would have to have then upside-down, which isn't a big deal, but it would look nicer doing it the other way. For AC, which side of the breaker is which doesn't matter, does it? Are those markings just for DC use of these breakers, or am I totally off? Thanks!

 
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:33 PM   #19
P-J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDom View Post
I'm starting to get stuff mounted in the box, and I have a question about my breakers. They are the CHINT miniature breakers from factorymation, and they have one terminal marked "load" and the other marked "line." To install them according to those labels would mean I would have to have then upside-down, which isn't a big deal, but it would look nicer doing it the other way. For AC, which side of the breaker is which doesn't matter, does it? Are those markings just for DC use of these breakers, or am I totally off? Thanks!
I'm not sure I understand your concern. Just mount the breakers in the position you want with the appearance that you want to accomplish (breaker right side up). The wiring will be in the back of the box routed around the breakers and will not interfere at all with your layout.

The terminal marked "line" is the power input from your input power cord. The terminal marked "load" goes to the device you are powering (protecting).



Hope this helps.

 
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:14 PM   #20
TheDom
 
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Thanks PJ. It really was a silly concern, as I will hardly ever be looking at the inside of the box anyway. For some reason I thought direction of slow wasn't relevant with AC, and that the breaker would function the same either way. I'm glad I asked.

Edit: I wanted to clarify that I did know what line and load mean, and really appreciate you spelling it out for me since I didn't make it clear that I understood which was which.

 
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