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Old 01-13-2012, 03:38 AM   #21
Daze
 
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For a wine yeast and not some of the turbo type yeasts, in most cases two months is the normal minimum. Also in wine you want it to be slow. The final product will be better.

 
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:52 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daze
For a wine yeast and not some of the turbo type yeasts, in most cases two months is the normal minimum. Also in wine you want it to be slow. The final product will be better.
I can't help but totally agree with you about cool and slow. I like my beers that way and I have two wine kits in the fermentation chamber at 64 right now. Should I go cooler?

 
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:59 AM   #23
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what yeast did you use??

 
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:12 AM   #24
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There is a question I cannot answer. The yeast came with the kit and I threw out the pack after pitching. I will check the kit name tomorrow. That may indicate the yeast.

 
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:15 AM   #25
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64 is probably a good temp. the only reason mine is at 58 is that is the current temp of my basement

 
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:23 AM   #26
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Quote:
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64 is probably a good temp. the only reason mine is at 58 is that is the current temp of my basement
Been there. A chest freezer / controller is the cats ass!

 
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:47 PM   #27
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How does one go about pasteurizing wine?

 
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:59 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huesmann View Post
How does one go about pasteurizing wine?
There are lots of ways that it is done commercially, but really only two ways I know for the home brewer to do it. Both ways involve heating it up and require a thermometer. You can either pasteurize in or out of the bottle. If you are planning on using wine bottles and corks than it must be done out of the bottle. rack the wine in to a stock pot, attach the thermometer to the side of the pot with the probe in the wine and slowly bring the win temp up to 140 once you get there cover it with a sterilized lid, remove it from the heat, and let it cool. Once cool bottle it. If you bottle it hot, as it cools the corks will be sucked in to the bottles.

if using caped bottles you can pasteurize in a pan, and bottle hot as the cap won't get sucked in. the other option is to fill and cap the bottles then pasteurize them with a hot water bath. this link tells all about that.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/easy...g-pics-193295/

The biggest advantage to pasteurization besides stopping fermentation is extended shelf life for wines with a lower ABV that would not normally keep as long.

 
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:56 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daze View Post
I have some apricot wine, that has been bubbling away for several months. I recently checked the SG and it was around 1.025 I want to bottle it a little on the sweet side so I decided to cold crash it. Living in northwest MT all I had to do was put it out on my inclosed front porch to get it cold enough. I have a digital thermometer out there and the temperature has varied between 33 and 28. After 24 hours on the porch the wine is still bubbling away. I realize some of that is going to be residual CO2 suspended in the liquid but it has only slowed down a little bit. It doesn't look like any yeast has dropped out of suspension at all. I know it can take days to cold crash, but I figured the cold would at least slow down the bubbling. am I doing something wrong or do I just need to continue to be more patient.
Why not just use pottasium sorbate to kill the east then sweeten it to your desire?

 
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickibob View Post
Why not just use pottasium sorbate to kill the east then sweeten it to your desire?
first and for most pottasium sorbate does not kill yeast it stops reproduction so it will not work on an active ferment. it will only work on a fully fermented wine that is being back sweetened OR on a wine that is not fermented out but that has been cold crashed to remove most of the yeast.

second, IMHO chemicals are evil so I won't use them if I can avoid it.

 
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