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Old 01-10-2012, 01:59 PM   #1
Joe_in_GA
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Default Element cord options

Hey guys, I'm working out the final details on my 2 vessel electric system and have a question for you. I was thinking of putting a plug on the kettle end of my element cord so I wouldn't have to drag a 6 foot cable around every time I moved my kettle. Has anyone done this? Do you like your setup? Are there any concerns other than the obvious don't get it wet? Thanks for your advice.


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Old 01-10-2012, 02:06 PM   #2
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I put a short dongle on the kettle end:



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Old 01-10-2012, 02:06 PM   #3
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IMO, A long cord would be a hassle. Here is how I did mine. It's about a 1-ft cord - short enough to not really be an issue and cheaper than a reverse service receptacle on the kettle.

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Old 01-10-2012, 02:14 PM   #4
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Those are pretty much exactly what I was thinking of doing. Have you had any issues with them?
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe_in_GA View Post
Those are pretty much exactly what I was thinking of doing. Have you had any issues with them?
Nope!
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:21 PM   #6
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None here either. I have about 6 brews in since I went electric with the boil. All works far better than I expected.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:50 PM   #7
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Just mount this in the kettle box:


You can get them reasonably on ebay:
ebay.com - Hubbell-HBL2615-L5-30-flanged-outlet

Grainger has a good description of it:
grainger.com - Flanged-Inlet 3D072
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
Just mount this in the kettle box:


You can get them reasonably on ebay:
ebay.com - Hubbell-HBL2615-L5-30-flanged-outlet

Grainger has a good description of it:
grainger.com - Flanged-Inlet 3D072
Looks like a good solution if you are using a 2-gang box on your kettle. Unfortunately there is not enough room in my setup (single box) to mount that.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:59 PM   #9
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I considered the flanged inlet also. It does take a bigger box. Mine only uses a handy box and doesn't stick out very far. If you go this route, I'd use a L6-30 rated 240V unless you are running your elements at 120V.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:30 PM   #10
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Someone needs to start making a molded plastic assembly that attaches to the back of an element and also has the male twist lock on the other end.


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