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Old 10-10-2012, 06:14 PM   #21
Enoch52
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That's really what I'm asking, I guess. Assuming I have a large carboy I use for primary fermentation and decide to get 5 1-gallon fermenters, what's the best way to go about this? Use bittering hops only in the boil, and then dry-hop (i.e., don't add any flavor or aroma hops to the boil)? After that, would it be better to split it up amongst the smaller containers and do primary fermentation (and dry-hopping) in them, or ferment it in my standard primary and do a secondary dry-hop in the smaller containers?

 
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:26 PM   #22
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Either way would work. but it might be worthwhile to use 5 seperate fermenters with flavor addition of the same one as being dry hopped. Might give you a better idea of what a particular hop can do.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:33 PM   #23
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Did a SMaSH with Cascade and it turned out friggin awesome. It was about as easy as you can get and Cascade isn't hard to find. I stumbled on a few oz of Centennial about a month ago and immediately threw it in the freezer. I'll have to use them sparingly since they said it was dumb luck they even got them. I'll usually use Cascade with the Centennial to make it stretch a little further.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:35 PM   #24
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I've seen the term "SMaSH" a lot--what does that mean?

My main question with this thread is: if I only use bittering hops in the boil and the only other hop addition is a dry hop, will that turn out a decent beer, or is this only worth doing to experiment with hops?

 
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enoch52 View Post
I've seen the term "SMaSH" a lot--what does that mean?

My main question with this thread is: if I only use bittering hops in the boil and the only other hop addition is a dry hop, will that turn out a decent beer, or is this only worth doing to experiment with hops?
Single Malt and Single Hop (SMaSH). Cheap and easy all-grain brewing. I would imagine if you did only a bittering addition (60min) and dry hopping you would have a hard time dialing in the balance of bitter/aroma. Remember, you taste first with your nose. I would suggest doing at least one aroma addition in your boil. Say 5 min before flame out. How much and what kind were you planning on adding at 60?
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:45 PM   #26
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Hadn't decided that yet. I've only brewed one beer so far (start my second tomorrow), but I'm interested in the concept in order to learn more about the various hop varieties.

 
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enoch52 View Post
Hadn't decided that yet. I've only brewed one beer so far (start my second tomorrow), but I'm interested in the concept in order to learn more about the various hop varieties.
Just my $.02, but I would suggest using Cascade since you're new to the hobby. It's a solid hop variety that is pretty consistent when you use it across the board (bittering and aroma). If I'm at a loss of what to use and I know what kind of general profile I want, I'll always lean towards Cascade. Centennial is an amazing hop for APAs and IPAs, but it's not an easy variety to get your hands on right now. At least not for me. If you're looking for a hop assault, there's always Simcoe, Warrior, Amarillo, etc. but sometimes those can be a little tricky to balance. I'm not a huge hophead, so if you're looking for something that really showcases a high hop profile, I'll let the others with more experience guide you.

FWIW, I'll also use Fuggles and East Kent Goldings in more than average quantities if I'm looking for something on the earthy side. I'm also a fan of Northern Brewer and Hallertau.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:45 PM   #28
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My current batch of IPA used Warrior hops for bittering and Citra for the aroma. My wife says she could drink my IPA every day of the week...

 
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:32 AM   #29
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Single hops,may be the best way to learn hop characteristics.Some breweries make these single hop beers,and that helps learn them also. Region and freshness can vary with the same hops though.Ive had different type cascade hops like Belgian Cascade and/or NZ cascades(I think) for instance, and I dont think any of them were very similar really.

 
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:33 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enoch52
I've seen the term "SMaSH" a lot--what does that mean?

My main question with this thread is: if I only use bittering hops in the boil and the only other hop addition is a dry hop, will that turn out a decent beer, or is this only worth doing to experiment with hops?
Should work fine - I'd recommend using a warrior or a magnum for bittering if you go that route. They're cheap, high alpha, and have relatively low flavor profiles. They won't mask the flavor of your dry hopping at all. IMO this approach is much easier than doing multiple small boils (I'm trying doing the small boil thing with NZ hops and it's a pain in the arse).

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is yeast - if you're looking to really taste the hop character you'll want a clean fermenting strain like wlp001 - California Ale from white labs. However, this will give you a different flavor than what you'd find in the two-hearted ale or dogfish 60.
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