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Old 02-22-2012, 08:21 PM   #91
drkwoods
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motobrewer View Post
what did the box tubing run?
you mean the 1.5" Square tube for the stand? That was about $80 at will call. and even at that I have 6 feet left over
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:29 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uber_franz View Post
Do you have trouble with vapor lock / pump priming when you do this? I begin pumping in my whirlpool chiller with 15 minutes left in the boil (to sanitize the pump and hose) and I've struggled with pump priming. I have to turn the burner down to get it to prime and then when I turn the burner back up it starts vaporizing in the silicone hose. The issue appears to be the low pressure (suction) generated by the pump and the water/sugar mixture at its boiling point, I think the wort is just boiling within the plumbing. Just curious how you deal with this. Maybe your 'burp' valves help? I've been considering one of these, but I'm worried about it sticking/jamming with the wort...

Cheers!
I think your referring to "Cavitation" where as the liquid boils the release of oxygen in the fluid causes the pump to spin without pushing the liquid? Yes I do as well. But Ive got it minimized..for a couple reasons, I get the whirlpool going while the wort is filling the BK. As Long as I keep it flowing full speed, it seems to be ok. Once in a while though the boil will get too much air in the suction line and spin the pump a little but it usually gets going again no prob. I wish I knew what that Float thing (you linked) was or how it worked? I do have bottom drains on my kettles and my pumps are about 20" below the kettles, with a 12/6 orientation. The burps do help but I only need those to get started and only sometimes. also FWIW, I am using the new HF March pumps from B3. they are supposed to have less cavitation issues.. so maybe thats why i have fewer probs.. check out what they say about it here http://morebeer.com/view_product/116...mp_-_High_Flow
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Old 02-22-2012, 09:25 PM   #93
motobrewer
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$80 for 40' of 304 stainless??
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Old 02-22-2012, 09:36 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motobrewer View Post
$80 for 40' of 304 stainless??
No not stainless. Its all mild Steel.. Cant remember what guage. But its very strong
edit: 16 guage
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:59 AM   #95
uber_franz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drkwoods View Post
I wish I knew what that Float thing (you linked) was or how it worked? I do have bottom drains on my kettles and my pumps are about 20" below the kettles, with a 12/6 orientation. The burps do help but I only need those to get started and only sometimes. also FWIW, I am using the new HF March pumps from B3. they are supposed to have less cavitation issues.. so maybe thats why i have fewer probs.. check out what they say about it here http://morebeer.com/view_product/116...mp_-_High_Flow
The float valve is supposed to release gas but not liquid. The 'float' is buoyant in water/wort/liquid, but drops in gas which allows it to vent. Haven't tried 'em yet. Not sure it would help since the 'cavitation' or 'vaporization' is occurring on the negative pressure side.

 
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:10 AM   #96
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fwiw, I'm pretty sure the Morebeer "exclusive" pump is a March 815-PL. I have a pair of them...

Cheers!

 
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:24 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by day_trippr View Post
fwiw, I'm pretty sure the Morebeer "exclusive" pump is a March 815-PL. I have a pair of them...

Cheers!
I have a March 815 and the new HF from More Beer. Externally they are identical.. its the impeller they changed. Its supposed to prevent cavitation. Running them both side by side I can say the HF does do a better job..

Here's a link to one thread on the differences and upgrading to it, if you wish to.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/can-...ump-hf-213577/

Cheers!!
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:27 PM   #98
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So here's my Mash Dump idea. The arms are angle iron, connected to SS couplings swaged and sweated in with solder to just below the mid point of the vessel. It tips all the way back to reverse vertical. And my Mash is out into a trash bag in seconds. now I just have to paint it up. I added "Landing Pads" so the paint is not damaged by returning the MLT to its operational position... brew day is comming!!!!

PS the "bizarre" position of the drain on two of my Kettles is the way they came when I bought them off Craigs list.. So My method was accept it and deal with it.. I wouldnt have done it that way.. in fact the welds arent even straight which made making this mash dump very challenging..
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:39 PM   #99
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How well does that dump work? Will it flip the whole rig over if there's t enough weight on top?

 
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:21 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtrevino View Post
How well does that dump work? Will it flip the whole rig over if there's t enough weight on top?
it works great.. I have a trash can that fits right under it. I had to make a retainer for the False bottom so it stays in the keg upside down

Flippingover??
Not a Chance.. There's two other Kettles on there vs the one flipping back. A keggle weighs about 30 pounds empty. So if I do the math, that Mash tun would need 30+ pounds of malt to even come close to tipping the Cart..But the cart weighs 50 (empty) and it has pumps, diamond plate and a chiller all on the opposite side and weighing in at the least 30 more pounds..
Also I dont plan on dumping the Mash when the Keggles are empty..(even though I can without a problem) I'll do it during the boil. During my Boils theres usually 10+ Gallons in the BK (which is gonna be close to 80 lbs) and my HLT usually still has water in it as well. So its as stable as you can image
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