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Old 01-09-2012, 08:30 PM   #11
EarthBound
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Back to the first dilemma, I suppose the reducing coupling idea would work, too, and not really impede the use of the conduit boxes, but I have to buy the coupling, and I already have the lock nut, so welding the lock nut seems like a better choice. I think that's what I'm gonna go for.


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Old 01-09-2012, 08:40 PM   #12
sv_1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EarthBound View Post
That is actually probably a better idea than the sheet metal! There would be a few little gaps to fill, but it's definitely feasible. I think it would still work with my conduit boxes, as well. We may have a winner...

I do not have male plugs. Why do you ask?
'Cause I thought you were planning on building 240v cattle prods, but I had to ask to see if I misunderstood

The locknuts I just welded up were 1.735, so I bet you'll be alright with little to no gap.



 
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:19 PM   #13
bcraun
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I've plugged holes in keggles before using various sizes of hex head plugs. In your case, just find a 1-11/16" plug (1.6875") and use a silicone o-ring with lock nut on the inside and/or outside of the vessel wall for a nice, watertight seal.

 
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:37 AM   #14
EarthBound
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Problem solved. Just got home from my buddy's chopper shop. The locknuts have been TIG welded to the outside of the keggles. Yes, I botched two of them. There were no gaps to fill. I said it once, and I'll say it again...

It pays to have skilled friends who like good beer.

Now it's time to work on those outlets...
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:51 AM   #15
EarthBound
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Thank you everyone for your input... especially on the cattle prod project.
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:03 PM   #16
Exayu
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Jun 2012
Bloomington, IN
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I did the exact same thing for my HLT. Though I am using a 5 gallon cooler. Any sugestions on how to fix that?

 
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:44 PM   #17
stlbeer
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Welding spuds from Bobby M at brewhardware.com.

http://www.brewhardware.com/fittings/120-spuds


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