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Old 01-07-2012, 02:43 AM   #1
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Default How do you install a tri clover fitting on the vessel ?

Lets say you want to use these valves on your mash tun or boil kettle.


Brewers Hardware 1" Tri Clover 3-Piece Ball Valve

How do you mount a triclover "flange" to the kettle and how do you connect it to the pickup tube ?

How are these supposed to be used ?

Brewers Hardware 1.5" Tri Clover Ferrule - Long


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Old 01-07-2012, 02:49 AM   #2
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You would weld this to your kettle then attach the valve to it.


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Old 01-07-2012, 02:58 AM   #3
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Ferrules need to be physically attached to the vessel wall. Welding is a common option, soldering or brazing has been proven to work well and is increasing in popularity. There is a thread on here about soldering stainless. You could also use a weldless bulkheads and get tri-clamp to NPT fittings and go that route.
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Old 01-07-2012, 03:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbergmania View Post
You would weld this to your kettle then attach the valve to it.
I understand welding that or something like it to the outside of the kettle. But how do you attach a pickup tube to it on the inside ? By chance would some standard pipe slide inside that fitting ?
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Old 01-07-2012, 03:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickles View Post
You could also use a weldless bulkheads and get tri-clamp to NPT fittings and go that route.
I'm beginning to think that welding a threaded coupler into the vessel well, threading the pickup tube into it on the inside and threading a tri clamp flange to it may be the way to go.

However, if you are going to do that, why not skip the triclamp flange and thread a threaded valve onto the coupler ? ie one of these ?



1/2" Stainless 3-Piece Ball Valve from Brewers Hardware

I thought the purpose of triclamp was to get rid of threads because they can't really be cleaned internally. I thought the system was supposed to go triclamp -> tubing with no threads.

Once you have a thread in the system, its harder to clean.
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Old 01-07-2012, 03:44 AM   #6
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Tri-clamps also allow an almost infinite amount of fitting options due to a standard interface.

Weld the ferrule to the vessel and you can put a tee, a cross, an elbow, a valve, a custom cap with a compression fitting, another cap with a thermowell and airlock grommet, etcetera via a clamp and matching fitting. More specifically sanitary fluid tranfer options than NPT.
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Old 01-07-2012, 03:47 AM   #7
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I understand that you can attach those things to a tri clover flange. How do you attach something to the inside of the vessel if you weld the flange to the outside ?
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:54 AM   #8
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With something like this:

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Old 01-07-2012, 11:22 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewman ! View Post
I understand that you can attach those things to a tri clover flange. How do you attach something to the inside of the vessel if you weld the flange to the outside ?
Weld it to the bottom then you don't need a pick up tube
Also apparently the standard sanke keg spear connection will mate to a triclover (again I have not tried but it has been said on here), i.e. turn the keg upsidedown, cut the hole in the "bottom", use the convienient existing "triclover" fitting already in place to attache your valve.
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Old 01-07-2012, 03:15 PM   #10
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Tri-clamp offers an easily cleaned and sterilized connection (not as important on the hot side). They also offer an easy way to disconnect hoses, valves, etc for cleaning, storage and reconfiguration.

+1 to the bottom drain. I have my hlt and mt configured this way and will redo my bk in the spring, so easy to clean! Conveniently the sanke adapter accepts a 2" tri-clamp with a modified gasket.


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