Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Updated Rubbermaid 10 Gallon MLT w/ copper manifold build
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:33 PM   #21
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I have my slots facing down and have only 2 cups dead space when I use a hose on the outside ball valve, creating a siphoning effect. Without the hose I have about 3/4 gallon left. With steel mesh I would you assume you have about 3/4 gallon deadspace because as the mesh breaks the water you lose the siphoning effect.

I chose to solder just the perpendicular pieces. This keeps all the joints together and wont come apart in the mash tun. Personal preference, Not performance related.


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Old 01-05-2012, 08:36 PM   #22
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Yes, it does create a siphon. The downward force of the liquid in the hose creates a vacuum to suck out every last drop, down to the bottom of the tun (or your highest leak point)


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Old 01-05-2012, 08:36 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polo_check View Post
I have my slots facing down and have only 2 cups dead space when I use a hose on the outside ball valve, creating a siphoning effect. Without the hose I have about 3/4 gallon left. With steel mesh I would you assume you have about 3/4 gallon deadspace because as the mesh breaks the water you lose the siphoning effect.

I chose to solder just the perpendicular pieces. This keeps all the joints together and wont come apart in the mash tun. Personal preference, Not performance related.
Hmm, I will try that out. I did a test and I had roughly the same amount of liquid in mine with the new manifold and with the braid, about 6 cups (1.5L). That was without the hose on the outside of my MLT from the barb valve.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barhoc11

Adding a hose on the output creates a siphon? I don't get how you could get the liquid down further than the drilled hole in the MLT since the water line would be below that hole.
The simple answer? "Because it just does." If you want to learn the science behind it just search for "siphon effect" on google. Prepare to be amazed.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barhoc11
I just put mine together tonight in a couple hours, still need to cut all the slots but thought it went pretty well. It is a tight fit but I guess that's a good thing.

Dumb question... what are the advantages of soldering?
Nice. I like the copper pipe all the way to the spigot. Do you just turn your ball valve to thread thread the manifold on or will you just leave that piece unsoldered?
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:02 AM   #26
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Nice. I like the copper pipe all the way to the spigot. Do you just turn your ball valve to thread thread the manifold on or will you just leave that piece unsoldered?
I leave the piece that fits the thread on and I have just enough room to slide in the copper tube when I set the manifold in the MLT. I am not soldering anything in my manifold because it holds together pretty well due to the snug fit and I made all the tubing pieces similar lengths so that when I do take it apart, I don't have to worry about finding the correct parts for each section.

When I add the tubing outside it does create a siphon, I guess I never noticed it before because I always had grain in the cooler when I had the tube on doing runoff's. Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:10 AM   #27
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Quick question.
Why copper instead of a cheaper and easier to work with CPVC? I'm trying to find out which way I need to go with mine this week.

Edit: Nevermind, I just found four 8' x 1/2" copper pipes in my basement. Looks like this will be the least expensive way after all. It's nice when things work out!

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Old 01-12-2012, 02:39 PM   #28
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Quick question.
Why copper instead of a cheaper and easier to work with CPVC? I'm trying to find out which way I need to go with mine this week.

Edit: Nevermind, I just found four 8' x 1/2" copper pipes in my basement. Looks like this will be the least expensive way after all. It's nice when things work out!
It was sort of the same thing for me. I had several pipes hanging out in the basement and thought I'd put them to work. Plus the copper just looks high grade and real cool.
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barhoc11 View Post
I just put mine together tonight in a couple hours, still need to cut all the slots but thought it went pretty well. It is a tight fit but I guess that's a good thing.

Dumb question... what are the advantages of soldering?

I just built a manifold that looks very similar to yours - what did you use to make a tight seal for the cooler exit/bulkhead fitting? I need to go from 1/2" (manifold) to 3/8" (ball valve). That's the last part of this build that's tripping me up...
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:37 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Wingy View Post
I just built a manifold that looks very similar to yours - what did you use to make a tight seal for the cooler exit/bulkhead fitting? I need to go from 1/2" (manifold) to 3/8" (ball valve). That's the last part of this build that's tripping me up...
I just used a copper piece with 1/2" female side and a 1/2" normal side that connects to the manifold. I would imagine you could find something similar with a 3/8" female side.

I got all my parts at Lowes if that helps


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