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Old 01-04-2012, 12:28 AM   #11
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Palmer's online version does have a summary that I didn't seein the book. An excerpt concludes:

Here are the summary guidelines for designing efficient manifolds and lauter tuns:
Have the straight line distance to the drain be as short as possible. In other words, orient the pipes longitudinally with respect to the drain.

So polo_check should be correct as mine would be latitudinal and also the farthest it could possibly be from the drain. My next run I plan on dialing in all my temps and calibrating the software to collect accurate data. It will be interesting to see how they differ in efficiency. Last weekend everything that could go wrong plagued me. I mashed in at around 145 degrees 7 degrees low from where I actually wanted....or did I? Thermometer was found to be problematic and low so who knows. And the timer I had set for a 60 minutes boil somehow went dark when checked at about 45 minutes. So my 60 minute boil time was pretty much a guess.


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Old 01-04-2012, 01:19 AM   #12
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These are both good examples of manifolds but I have one question, why does the part that connects to the drain always connect to the part furthest away on the manifold?

I am sure there is a reason but cannot think of what it would be, maybe its is so the line elevates over a longer distance?


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Old 01-04-2012, 01:29 AM   #13
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How long did you make your cross bars? Somehow I calculated the length wrong (geometry use to be my strong point). I calculated an 8.5" square. I measured that my 90* fittings added .75" to the length so cut my crossbars at 7". Its final dimension ended almost 8.75" square, larger than projected but about .5" short all the way around. Still trying to figure out where I miscalculated. Still pleased with the results though.
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Old 01-04-2012, 01:33 AM   #14
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nice work!!!
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barhoc11 View Post
These are both good examples of manifolds but I have one question, why does the part that connects to the drain always connect to the part furthest away on the manifold?

I am sure there is a reason but cannot think of what it would be, maybe its is so the line elevates over a longer distance?
The only reason I have it is because if you have the outflow next to the spigot it will be really hard to put the hose on and get the manifold out of the cooler. You could remedy this by using a different adapter besides the barb adapter used in the build on this thread. Maybe using something like the female end of a water hose that would allow you to attach the manifold more easily. Might try that on my next design.

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Old 01-04-2012, 09:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polo_check View Post
How long did you make your cross bars? Somehow I calculated the length wrong (geometry use to be my strong point). I calculated an 8.5" square. I measured that my 90* fittings added .75" to the length so cut my crossbars at 7". Its final dimension ended almost 8.75" square, larger than projected but about .5" short all the way around. Still trying to figure out where I miscalculated. Still pleased with the results though.
I sort of cheated. I had a lot of copper pipe and fittings laying around from an idea I had to plumb my shop with compressed air a long time ago. I probably bought 8-10ft sticks of copper pipe. I have since used most of it building hummingbird feeder stands for my wife. The rest I just had laying around so I just started cutting and dry fitting. I did have the first 3 to 4 too short so I just cut some longer until they fit tight. I fiddled with them a long time before I ever soldered anything. It actually is so tight it works like a siphon down to the slits if you have a hose on the output to get it below the valve.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:35 AM   #17
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I just put mine together tonight in a couple hours, still need to cut all the slots but thought it went pretty well. It is a tight fit but I guess that's a good thing.

Dumb question... what are the advantages of soldering?

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Old 01-05-2012, 03:39 PM   #18
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Another question... How much more deadspace should be assumed when comparing this to a standard braided stainless steel attachment?

Does anyone know the benefits of soldering a copper manifold? I want mine to be easily taken apart for cleaning and I cannot think of why I would want to solder this if it fits in my MLT snug enough to where its not going to open up.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:26 PM   #19
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Nothing says you have to solder it. It needs to leak anyhow. For me I thought about not soldering but every time I took it out it was like a puzzle to figure out again. Both ends come off of mine to clean so I thought that was enough. As far as dead space is concerned you can just check that with water after you get the slots cut. You must have a hose or something on your output of the Tun to check if you want it to go any lower than the output tube or it can't siphon. Mine sucks down to the slits in the tubing. I would think that would be lower than the top of a braided screen hose.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikespunchlist View Post
Nothing says you have to solder it. It needs to leak anyhow. For me I thought about not soldering but every time I took it out it was like a puzzle to figure out again. Both ends come off of mine to clean so I thought that was enough. As far as dead space is concerned you can just check that with water after you get the slots cut. You must have a hose or something on your output of the Tun to check if you want it to go any lower than the output tube or it can't siphon. Mine sucks down to the slits in the tubing. I would think that would be lower than the top of a braided screen hose.
Adding a hose on the output creates a siphon? I don't get how you could get the liquid down further than the drilled hole in the MLT since the water line would be below that hole.


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