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Old 01-22-2013, 01:28 AM   #111
kifkroker
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May 2012
Sarasota, FL
Posts: 67
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts


Saw this thread and checked my HD while I was there buying some blow off tubing, they had one left for $118. Never been so excited to purchase an appliance before... Thanks for posting!!!

FYI---no plans to mod since I'm in FL and don't need to heat, just gonna test what temps each setting the thermostat will cool it to. If anybody has this info already, could you please post? Thanks!

 
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:10 AM   #112
dcbw
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Feb 2012
Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 286
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Picked one up today for 149 in St Louis Park MN. They have 2 left.

 
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:01 AM   #113
jborgy
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Mar 2011
Omaha, Nebraska
Posts: 14
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I just successfully adjusted the thermostat on this fridge. I didnt really want to cut any wires to bypass the thermostat so I went this route. Now I can lager and crash cool with no problem. Please note that I'm also using an external temp controller to achieve exact temps. I only did this so I could get the fridge to lower temps. I've never tried to attach pics so I apologize if this doenst come out.

The first pic shows a small hole that contains the only screw you need to remove to open the thermostat.

once the screw is removed, carefully swing the front of the unit down and it will open up.

once you have the thermostat open you can get to the temp adjustment screw (4th pic) on the left side you can see the head of the screw and in the little window you can see the tension spring. This part took a little trial and error but I found that the more you compress the spring the colder your fridge will get. I just used a small needle nose pliers to adjust the screw.

In the last pic (which isnt very clear) you can see my thermometer. Its sitting in a glass of water and it read 36F. at this point the fridges manual temp control dial was set at "6". I realize this is colder than I will need to go but with my dual stage temp control this should work out just fine.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:04 AM   #114
jborgy
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Mar 2011
Omaha, Nebraska
Posts: 14
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One thing I forgot to mention. When you are ready to reattach the thermostat unit make sure you dont pinch any of the wires between the top of the fridge and the thermostat.

 
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:26 PM   #115
kluge9
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Aug 2012
Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 51
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Finally got around to plugging mine in (still waiting on STC-1000 and figuring out what I'm going to be doing for heat) but I did the temperature screw adjustment laid out above. You need to twist the screw counter-clockwise to tighten the spring and just sticking in both a dial and mercury thermometer (no water bottle) they read 18*. And that was only after being turned on for about 45 minutes at level 7. Good tip jborgy!!

 
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:27 PM   #116
whrswoldo
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Dec 2011
Houston, Tx
Posts: 12

My local store in Houston had 4 new ones for $147, I snagged a floor model for $85:-) it's missing the front feet but otherwise in good condition.

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Old 02-11-2013, 05:32 PM   #117
jborgy
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Mar 2011
Omaha, Nebraska
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kluge9 View Post
Finally got around to plugging mine in (still waiting on STC-1000 and figuring out what I'm going to be doing for heat) but I did the temperature screw adjustment laid out above. You need to twist the screw counter-clockwise to tighten the spring and just sticking in both a dial and mercury thermometer (no water bottle) they read 18*. And that was only after being turned on for about 45 minutes at level 7. Good tip jborgy!!
Thanks but I cant take all the credit. I "borrowed" the idea from another thread about chest freezers.

 
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:38 PM   #118
barrbiz
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Jun 2012
Denver, Colorado
Posts: 3

Is anyone using a 10amp inline fuse on their main power coming into the box? When the Vissani kicks on it blows the 10amp fuse every time. I used this wiring diagram,http://www.bootknockerbrewing.com/, putting the fuse exactly where it is in the diagram even though the site says he ended up putting it somewhere else.

I have read that the stc-1000 can take up to 15amps but before I go up to a 15amp inline fuse I thought i would check what others are doing.

Any ideas?

 
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:00 PM   #119
ingchr1
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Aug 2009
Orange County NY
Posts: 500
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I am not using any additional circuit protection in my setup.

The startup current of the compressor is causing your fuse to blow. I doubt the running current of the fridge is anywhere near 10A, it's probably only a couple of amps and should be indicated on the lable on the back of the unit. You just need to find a 10A fuse that is coordinated with the startup current of the compressor. Fuses are designed with different characteristics depending upon the application you want to us it in. Some will open right away and some will open after a delay.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:30 PM   #120
barrbiz
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Jun 2012
Denver, Colorado
Posts: 3

Thank you for the quick response and I will check out the fuses that I am using.

 
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