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Old 12-29-2011, 07:41 PM   #1
Dec 2011
Mobile, AL
Posts: 17

Hey guys,

I'm new to homebrewing and I think I've jumped in over my head a bit. I've got the equipment setup to do a full mash, and I bought the ingredients from a local homebrew store to make Lagunitas' Cappuchino Stout. I'll post the recipe below, but my problem is that I'm not fulling understanding it. I stopped by a brewery over the holidays and I think I've got a good handle on it now, but still missing a few points. If I'm right then I need to mash the grain at 155 for an hour and then remove the grains and add the hops at the indicated times. I don't understand the 0 minutes or dryhop ingredients and need to know how to add these. I also am unsure of how long it should be in the primary fermenter, the secondary, and bottle before drinking. Any help at all would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance and I look forward to brewing.

>From BYO September 2005, Vol.11, no.5 (p.52)
Lagunitas Cappuccino Stout clone(5 gallon all-grain)
OG = 1.070
FG = 1.014
IBU = 52
SRM = 35
ABV = 7.2%

10 lb 1oz 2-row pale malt
1 lb 12.5 oz wheat malt
1 lb 4.75 oz Crystal 609.5 oz chocolate malt
9.5 oz corn sugar
3 oz coffee

7.4 AAU Horizon (60 min) << 0.67 oz @ 11% AA
0.72 AAU Willamette (30 min) << 0.14 oz @ 5% AA
2.15 AAU Cascade (30 min) << 0.36 oz @ 6% AA
4.9 AAU Willamette (0 min) << 0.98 oz @ 5% AA
5.9 AAU Cascade (0 min) << 0.98 oz @ 6% AA
0.07 oz Willamette (dryhop)
0.08 oz Cascade (dryhop)

Wyeast 1056 American Ale yeast
0.75 cups corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step:
Mash at 155F. Boil 60 minutes, adding corn sugar at beginning of boil. Ferment 70F. Brewcoffee and add in secondary.

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Old 12-29-2011, 07:47 PM   #2
Nov 2011
Posts: 3,952
Liked 556 Times on 391 Posts

Jump right in! I love it. Don't let anyone tell you not to. And relax if things don't go exactly as planned - you'll still have awesome beer.

Dryhopping is generally done after primary active fermentation is done, I'd give it a week or so. Reason being, delicate/volatile hop oils/aroma would be lost during vigorous, active fermentation. Some people add directly to their primary (after activity slows) and dry hop in there for a week or two, others transfer to a secondary and dry hop in there.

If it were me, I'd primary for 7-10 days, then dry hop for another 7-10 days, then bottle. Leave it in the bottle at room temp for ~3 weeks. You'll have bubbles/carbonation after a few days, but it takes longer for the CO2 to fully dissolve. Try one after a week - it'll be fizzy and harsh. Much better after 2-3 weeks. Since this is a higher-ABV beer, time is your friend. You'll lose hop freshness over time, but everything else should get better with age.

And one other thing - I'd try to ferment close to mid/low 60s...a basement or swamp cooler (essentially covered with wet towel) work well.

You're correct on the mash - 155 for 60 mins should be great. Don't worry if you're +/- a degree or two. The 0min addition is exactly that - throw it in when you turn off the flame. Thought being that boiling drives off delicate aromas, think instead of making "hop tea" in the warm sugar water.

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Old 12-29-2011, 07:49 PM   #4
SouthernCross's Avatar
Jan 2009
Cedar Key and Trenton, Florida
Posts: 169
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

The (minutes) notations are when you add these items. YOu're doing a 60-minute boil, and you use a countdown timer, so 30-min means add things at 30 minutes left during boil. 0 minutes means add at end of boil as you take off heat.

I dryhop at secondary, but you can do however you want. Primary/secondary time - I haven't done a stout, so can't really answer. For a 'typical' beer, a week in each or 2 weeks in secondary is the usual. Primary as long as your gravity is changing for sure. Secondary is an optional in my world, not sure with a stout.

Sorry I can't answer more...
Si vis pacem, para bellum

Primary 1 - Pale Ale - Hoggetown Ale Works recipe
Primary 2 -

Secondary -

Bottled - Pumpkin Ale bottled and in T-A-D
Kegged & Tapped - Over-hopped Honey Wheat, Christmas Wit
Kegged & Carbing - Steam Clone

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Old 12-29-2011, 07:50 PM   #5
Dec 2010
Bloomington In., Indiana
Posts: 538
Liked 36 Times on 12 Posts

zero min hops go in at the end of the boil right as you shut the burner off ... dry hops go in about 5 to 10 days before you bottle ... I'd just primary it for three weeks, dryhopping the last week of that, and then bottle ... you also might want to add the 9.5 oz. of suger to the primary after the fermentation has settled down a bit ... that will help the yeast work a little better IIRC .. sounds like a great beer ... good luck

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Old 12-29-2011, 07:51 PM   #6
May 2010
Posts: 135
Liked 16 Times on 8 Posts

Do yourself a favor and pick up a copy of "how to brew" by john palmer.

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Old 12-29-2011, 07:56 PM   #7
Dan's Avatar
Oct 2010
Makakilo, Hawaii
Posts: 7,243
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Man you guys are fast.
Originally Posted by claytontlewis View Post
If I'm right then I need to mash the grain at 155 for an hour and then remove the grains and add the hops at the indicated times.
Yes mash the grains at 155 for an hour. Then do a vorlauf which is a fancy name for recirulating some wort. To do this, assuming you are using a cooler with a some type of drain system just collect wort into a jug, it will be full of grain bits, gently pour (so you don't disturb the grain bed) that back into the mash, repeat process until the wort come out pretty much sediment free. This can take a while or be a fast process, just depends on your system.

Not sure if you plan to batch or fly sparge. If batch sparging just drain the wort from your mash into a brew kettle or bucket. Start slowly and gently increase the output. With my systems I usually open my valve about halfway and have a good steady flow. You'll just have to experiment with your system. Once it is drained add you sparge water mix everything up real well and do another vorlauf, once running clear, drain to boil kettle. Do this as many times as you recipe calls for

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Old 12-29-2011, 07:57 PM   #8
Dan's Avatar
Oct 2010
Makakilo, Hawaii
Posts: 7,243
Liked 2242 Times on 1397 Posts

There are some great videos on you tube for all grain brewing. Are you batch or fly sparging?

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Old 12-29-2011, 07:58 PM   #9
stratslinger's Avatar
Dec 2010
Terryville, CT
Posts: 2,542
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Nice - jumping directly into the deep end with AG, I see!

First question: exactly WHAT equipment do you have on hand? Most specifically, what do you intend to mash in?

Traditional all grain methods are very similar to what you describe - but you mash the grains for 60 minutes, then extract the wort from the grains, rather than remove the grains from the wort, if you follow what I'm getting at.

Here's how I would approach it, which might help:
- I'd mash the grains @ 155, as you suggest, in my cooler mash tun.
- After 60 minutes, I'd drain all the liquid I could from that mash tun into my boil kettle.
- I aim to boil 7.5 or so gallons (I expect to boil off about 1.5 gallons). So I take a look at what volume I was able to extract from the mash, and subtract that from 7.5. This is my sparge volume.
- I heat that sparge volume up to about 180F, then add half of it to the mash tun, stir, wait 10 minutes or so, then drain into the boil kettle.
- I then add the second half of the sparge volume to the mash tun, stir, wait 10 minutes or so, then train into the boil kettle.
- I should now have about 7.5 gallons of wort in my kettle, and I bring that up to a boil
- Once I reach a boil, I give it a couple minutes, watching carefully for the hot break (it'll look like egg drop soup). Some folks scoop this out, I simply wait for it to happen and let it drop back into the kettle.
- Once the hot break is done, I set a timer for 60 minutes, and add my 60 minute hop addition
- When the timer reaches 30 minutes, I add the 30 minute hop addition
- When the timer reaches 0, I turn out the flame and add the 0 minute hop addition, whirlpool (stir it up fiarly rapidly) and let it stand, covered, for 10-15 minutes.
- After the 10-15 minutes, chill the wort, transfer to fermenter, and add the yeast

Give it whatever time it needs (yeast work on their own timetable, not yours!) for primary fermentation to complete. You'll know it's complete because your hydrometer (you have one, right? ) will give you a consistent gravity reading for 3 days in a row. Typically, this will happen in 10-14 days, but it never hurts to give the beer an extra week or so past that point.

Only after primary fermentation is done do you add the dry hops. Some folks will add that to the primary fermenter, some will transfer the beer to a secondary vessel and add the dry hops there - do whichever works best for you. Let the beer sit with the dry hops for at least a few days (to be honest, I've only dry-hopped once, so I'm no authority when it comes to dry-hopping).

After those few days with the dry hops, go ahead and package your beer - whether you keg it, or add priming sugar and bottle. If you're bottle conditioning, give it 3 weeks at room temperature, then a couple days in the fridge for the CO2 to dissolve into the beer, and you're good to go.

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Old 12-29-2011, 08:02 PM   #10
Dec 2011
Mobile, AL
Posts: 17

Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
What do you have for equipment? If we know that, we can type out step by step instructions for you.
This is my kit here:

7.9 gallon plastic primary fermenter with a lid and stopper
5 gallon glass carboy secondary fermenter
Universal stopper
Two 3-piece airlocks
Plastic Bucket Opener
6 feet of Siphon Hose (3/8" Thin Wall)
Auto-Siphon (3/8")
Auto-Siphon Clamp (3/8")
Bottle Filler (3/8")
Red Baron Bottle capper
Bottle caps
Nylon grain bag
Triple scale hydrometer
Floating thermometer
21" stainless steel spoon

I also have a outdoor propane burner, a 44 QT stainless steel stock pot, and a 25' wort chiller.

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