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Old 06-14-2012, 01:29 AM   #41
signpost
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Jan 2012
Berkley, Michigan
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I wish I had seen this thread earlier.

I've brewed 3 extract batches and my OG readings have been a bit high each time. The explanation given by Revvy makes perfect sense and is most likely why my readings were off.

I would like to propose my own conclusion of why my readings were high (by around 0.005 or less each time). Especially with the liquid extract, but also with the dme, there was always a bit left in the container. Is it possible that is taken into account for the OG published with the kit? If so, is it possible that I got slightly more extract out of the containers than they expect people to get? I've basically been working under the assumption that I am more anal than most about getting as much extract out of the container as possible and that my beers end up about 0.5 higher ABV than the recipe predicted.

So, am I an idiot or is this a possible (partial) explanation for readings that are a little high!


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Old 12-06-2012, 08:28 PM   #42
AACJ
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Jul 2006
North Chesterfield, Virginia
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I purchased and brewed a West Coast Pale Ale recently. It says the O.G. should be between 1.046 and 1.055. I did take my sample from the top of the carboy and while I did shake it, it was not as long as I probably should have. Also, during the boil, I added 3 pounds of DME to increase the alcohol content. My O.G. came out to 1.036.

If I assume the O.G. would be as the kits says, how much should I expect the 3lbs of DME to add to it?

Thanks


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Old 12-08-2012, 07:57 AM   #43
AnthonyCB
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Mar 2011
Paris, France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AACJ View Post
I purchased and brewed a West Coast Pale Ale recently. It says the O.G. should be between 1.046 and 1.055. I did take my sample from the top of the carboy and while I did shake it, it was not as long as I probably should have. Also, during the boil, I added 3 pounds of DME to increase the alcohol content. My O.G. came out to 1.036.

If I assume the O.G. would be as the kits says, how much should I expect the 3lbs of DME to add to it?

Thanks
You say, "Also, during the boil, I added 3 pounds of DME to increase the alcohol content." What did you add to the boil at the beginning as part of the kit 1.046-1.055 is a huge range? What was the volume of wort that made it into the fermenter? Did you all all the wort to the fermenter or did you strain out the hops/trub?

As the thread suggests 1.036 is certainly wrong.

-Anthony

 
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:38 PM   #44
AACJ
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Jul 2006
North Chesterfield, Virginia
Posts: 39


Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyCB View Post
You say, "Also, during the boil, I added 3 pounds of DME to increase the alcohol content." What did you add to the boil at the beginning as part of the kit 1.046-1.055 is a huge range? What was the volume of wort that made it into the fermenter? Did you all all the wort to the fermenter or did you strain out the hops/trub?

As the thread suggests 1.036 is certainly wrong.

-Anthony
Hi Anthony,

Thanks for the reply. I boiled 2 1/2 gallons of water, added the two cans of light malt extract then added the DME to the boil. It was a nice long boil, hour and 15 minutes at least. I added all the volume of the wort into my fermenter except for 1/2 inch of wort (maybe a bit less), leaving that and all the trub and hops behind. I ended up topping off with 2 more gallons of water after all was said and done, filling my fermenter up to exactly 5 gallons.

I know that is a wide range, but I am really just trying to get an idea, certainly not a concrete one, of where the OG really should have been. Oh, and by the way, I took a reading on Wednesday, it read 1.012 which is on the low end of the FG for the kit, but when I checked my airlock, it was still fermenting.....even today, theres still movement.

I've also brewed mostly with these kits. Both of the homebrew supply stores by me sell the kits all the way to all grains, but I really just don't know where to start after doing these kits for so long. I've probably brewed about 13 or more kits this way. I want to go all grain or graduate to something else. But the beer still tastes great, so why change something if it isn't broken.
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:52 PM   #45
boscobeans
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Apr 2012
Schenectady, New York
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I just can't get the hang of mine. The numbered part always stays below the surface and the only thing sticks out is that silvery part.

JK bosco

ps. Good post

 
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:09 PM   #46
DRonco
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Aug 2012
Seattle, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscobeans View Post
the only thing sticks out is that silvery part.
Silver part? Are you inserting it thin side up or down? Possible we have different designs but the only ones I've seen have "silver" on the bottom. It's basically a weight. Do you have a pic?

 
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:17 PM   #47
AACJ
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Jul 2006
North Chesterfield, Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRonco View Post

Silver part? Are you inserting it thin side up or down? Possible we have different designs but the only ones I've seen have "silver" on the bottom. It's basically a weight. Do you have a pic?
He is just joking around, hence the jk after his post.
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:20 PM   #48
DRonco
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Aug 2012
Seattle, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AACJ View Post

He is just joking around, hence the jk after his post.
#Fail

 
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:06 PM   #49
freisste
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Sep 2012
Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Don't feel bad. I read it the same way (and missed the jk). But I've seen Bosco around quite a bit. He can't be trusted.

 
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:31 PM   #50
boscobeans
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Apr 2012
Schenectady, New York
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All kidding aside it is a great post and should be sticky.

If it was it might be a solution to a lot of questions as the amount of followups shows.

Thread titles for a few well written stickies might be:

How to understand and use your hydrometer.
How to use an airlock.
What to do if you get a blow out and how to prevent one.

Those might be the answer to a lot of the same old questions.

Thanks again for the original post. It should be a mandatory read for all new brewers.

bosco



 
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