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Old 04-25-2012, 12:17 PM   #31
mux
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Sep 2011
Chicago, IL - Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgalle
I can just see all the panicky valve turning.
Yeah, like the ooppps I forgot to close the kettle valve while filling up. It takes 6 minutes of turning to shut it off. That's hilarious .



 
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:32 PM   #32
BeerguyNC61
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Feb 2012
Annapolis, MD
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Not to mention how hot that valve will be getting!



 
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:05 PM   #33
Brickout
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Feb 2010
Lockport, IL
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Maybe convert a ball valve to look like a gate valve. Just swap out the handles.

 
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:37 PM   #34
mux
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Sep 2011
Chicago, IL - Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brickout
Maybe convert a ball valve to look like a gate valve. Just swap out the handles.
Yeah! There you go problem solved.

 
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:41 PM   #35
Brickout
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Feb 2010
Lockport, IL
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I've made some changes to my wring diagram.



My first question; Do I have all the necessary fuses with the correct amp amounts?

Second; For switch #1, the DPDT for the HLT and BK, I was planning on using McMaster model #7343K791. And for the rest of the switches I plan on using McMaster model #7343K711. I these O K to use?

 
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:24 PM   #36
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
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Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
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Your Switch 1 (#7343K791) is rated for 15A-120V. The 5500W element draws 23A.

The one I placed in the diagram has a higher amp rating.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NKK...e-Switch-2TPF8

 
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Old 05-02-2012, 01:34 PM   #37
Brickout
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Feb 2010
Lockport, IL
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P-J, thanks for catching that.

Looking at the spec's on that switch is listed at, "Contact Rating @ 250V (Amps) - 15".
This is O K to use? Not that I'm questioning you. I just want to make sure I'm getting the correct switch.

 
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:51 PM   #38
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
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Mar 2010
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Those switches are fine for our application as the voltage measured to ground from any point is 120V. Both 120V phases are open whenever the switch is off and therefore the voltage across the switch points when off would still not be 240V (Zero in fact). It is more than capable of carring the current needed (25A).

Hope this makes sense & helps.

 
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:28 PM   #39
Brickout
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Ah, yes. I get it now.

Thanks.

 
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:38 PM   #40
Brickout
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Feb 2010
Lockport, IL
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Finally have all the parts, starting the build.

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