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Old 01-03-2012, 07:26 PM   #11
wadefisher
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Monster Mills rock!
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:10 PM   #12
Junkster
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Nice build so far! You may want to consider orienting your CFC vertically so wort will easily drain out completely rather that leaving some in the lower part of each "loop". It was something I thought about when building mine....

 
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkster View Post
Nice build so far! You may want to consider orienting your CFC vertically so wort will easily drain out completely rather that leaving some in the lower part of each "loop". It was something I thought about when building mine....
Excellent suggestion. I will make that change.
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Old 01-04-2012, 01:52 AM   #14
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It's hard to see from the picture, but how long is your CFC? It look like it might only be 10 or 15 feet.

 
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Old 01-04-2012, 01:58 AM   #15
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A few inches short of 13 feet.
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:17 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlbeer View Post
It's hard to see from the picture, but how long is your CFC? It look like it might only be 10 or 15 feet.
Is 13 feet to short?
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:19 AM   #17
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I ran down to the post office this afternoon and picked up the SSRs that had arrived from China. Kal does show one picture in his manual on how to mount the SSRs if you arenít using the big heat sink. I either didnít understand his design or something as I decided to go a little bit different of a route. First thing I did was cut off the mounting things so that the heat sing looks more like pyramid. Then I marked out the top of the box. The measurements for where I cut can be seen below.



The next thing I did was slip the bottom of the heat sink though the hole so that the base was actually under the plate. Then I marked where the bolt holes should go, removed the heat sink, drilled the holes and bolted it all together. Here is one look



And here is another.



I still need to put some caulk around the holes, but this seemed like the best way to mount these to many anyway.

BTW: I think the big heat sink looks super cool and as soon as I can find one, I am replacing these small little things.

Progress is going to slow down a lot at this point as we are waiting for the guys from Chugger to get pumps into stock, my co-partner in this outfit had his appendix out on Monday and I am traveling next week.
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grupe View Post
Is 13 feet to short?
13 feet may be too short. I'm in St Louis and in the heat of the summer the ground water temp can be 70*F. My CFC is 25 feet of 3/8" copper and even with a 50 foot 3/8" pre-chiller (once I'm below 100*F) it takes quite a while. Your mileage my vary, but I'm willing to guess the ground water temps in Omaha are similar to those in St Louis.

Right now I can go from boiling to about 68*F in a single pass - at least for the next couple of months.

 
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:45 PM   #19
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Depends what kind of coil you have. My CFC's only 12 feet long but the inner coil is convoluted (twisted) on the inside you can get away with a lot less. If you make it yourself odds are it is not convoluted.



The convoluted coil helps create turbulence which creates much better heat transfer.

Some DIY versions of doing this will solder on a wire around and around the inside coil before putting it in the outside coil. That also creates turbulence. Like this:




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Old 01-04-2012, 03:13 PM   #20
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I do not mean to be jerky or anything, but the convoluted coils are not worth the money at all in our case. They will not hurt anything, and look totally badass, and who knows, maybe in the real world they do add something to the equation. But in my experience and theoretically, a convoluted coil will provide no advantage in our situation.

Here is a blog I wrote to detail the subject for those interested. Do I have turbulent flow in my chiller? - Home Brew Forums

Basically, in a 1/2" tube, you need less than 1 gpm (gallon per minute) of flow to produce a fully developed turbulent flow (this is for a straight smooth interior tube, our situation would be lower than this). A standard garden hose puts out well over 5gpm and even my March pump puts out at least 3gpm. In short, you already have fully developed turbulent flow within the tubing without anything additional (wire or twists).

Fully developed turbulent flow is important as it provides the greatest heat transfer from the coolant to the coil.

A more impactful factor is the turbulence of the wort around the outside of the coil. However, in you CFC, you will likely be flowing the wort well above the flow rate needed for fully developed flow.

Again, I am not ragging on anyone's equipment just putting out the fact that flow will be turbulent in your chiller with or without the extra stuff. It may save you a few bones.

Cheers.

 
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