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Old 12-19-2011, 02:03 AM   #11
Lucky_Chicken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajgeo View Post
Have you tried it with the element plugged in? I use a 120v light. Mine will light from SSR leakage current until I plug in the element.
+1 even then it can still have voltage through the element and the red leg just with some resistance on it.



 
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:13 AM   #12
Junkster
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I think that you need a 240V pilot light in parallel with your element. As it is now, you have a path with the element relay closed from the red 120V side THROUGH the element, back through light to neutral - regardless of whether the SSR is conducting. The light takes VERY little current which can easily be supplied from the element which has a very low resistance. The 240V light across the element will only come on when each 120V path is completed via the SSR AND element relay. This is if I'm understanding the drawing. This could easily be verified if you lift the wire from the element and/or SSR one at a time and operate the element relay and watch the light.

I'm a little slow -SimBrew summed it up nicely.....



Reason: Slow response

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:20 AM   #13
canyonbrewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtsims21 View Post
+1 even then it can still have voltage through the element and the red leg just with some resistance on it.
same problem whether or not the element is plugged in....although when the element is *not* plugged in...the light is dim when SSR is off and bright when SSR in on.

3 votes for a 240v light. I'll go that route. Thanks ALL happy holidays!

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:55 AM   #14
ohararp
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Canyonbrew, please let me know how your testing goes, since I have a simlilar problem. I have some 240V lights, but I won't have time to test this for a bit.

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:42 AM   #15
SimBrew
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Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canyonbrewer View Post
same problem whether or not the element is plugged in....although when the element is *not* plugged in...the light is dim when SSR is off and bright when SSR in on.

3 votes for a 240v light. I'll go that route. Thanks ALL happy holidays!
Then you got 2 problems, one is when the element is pluged, the light get about 60V (I didn't calculate that) from the red 120y.

When the element is unpluged, you get some voltage from the leaking ssr.

try to mesure the voltage to the lamp with and without the element.

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:35 PM   #16
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My system and indicator lights are 240v. With the heater unplugged, the indicator light has a low glow. Plugging in the heater element to the circuit makes the indicator go out. I've checked the heater element and its still cool in this "unenergized" state, but its clear that there must be a teeny current leakage through all 6 of the 40a Fotek SSRs in my 3 heater circuits since all 3 indicator lights display this habit. I assume that the heater elements pass that teeny current and drop the voltage enough to fall below the threshold for the LED indicator lights. The heater elements and the indicator lights operate normally when they are energized via the PIDs or PWM.

Its clear that this current leakage could be a problem. In my case, I unplug the elements anytime when not in actual use.

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:11 PM   #17
canyonbrewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrungard View Post
My system and indicator lights are 240v. With the heater unplugged, the indicator light has a low glow. Plugging in the heater element to the circuit makes the indicator go out. I've checked the heater element and its still cool in this "unenergized" state, but its clear that there must be a teeny current leakage through all 6 of the 40a Fotek SSRs in my 3 heater circuits since all 3 indicator lights display this habit. I assume that the heater elements pass that teeny current and drop the voltage enough to fall below the threshold for the LED indicator lights. The heater elements and the indicator lights operate normally when they are energized via the PIDs or PWM.

Its clear that this current leakage could be a problem. In my case, I unplug the elements anytime when not in actual use.
do you have the 240v light wired in parallel with the element?

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:55 PM   #18
lschiavo
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If you are getting leakage current with the 120V lamp, I think you will get the same with the 240V lamp.

My indicator lamps are placed before the SSR. If you swap the positions of the relay and ssr in your circuit, and monitor power at the input the ssr you can avoid this problem. If you want to see when the SSR is switched on, add an LED to the dc input. This will not indicate actual power to the element but will let you know that power should/could be there and will provide a visual for safety.

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canyonbrewer View Post
do you have the 240v light wired in parallel with the element?
The LED indicator lamps are wired in parallel to the heater power circuit so that I can have a positive indication when power is applied to the element.

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:47 PM   #20
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If you tap a 120V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and neutral and have no element plugged in, it will light up due to leakage.

If you tap a 120V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and neutral and have the element plugged in, it will light up due to the path from the OTHER hot line, through the element, through the light, and then to neutral. Doesn't matter whether the SSR is or is not firing. It will light up all the time.

If you tap a 240V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and the other hot line and have no element plugged in, it will light up due to leakage.

If you tap a 240V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and the other hot line, and have the element plugged in, it will only light up when the element is actually firing (leakage current will almost all go through the element since it is MUCH lower resistance than the light).


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