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Old 12-21-2011, 05:44 PM   #21
DrewBrewTheGreat
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May 2011
jacksonville, Florida
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[quote=jtsims21;3589566][QUOTE=DrewBrewTheGreat;3587909]Also short and wide kettle are better for efficiency than tall and skinny ones.
Quote:

That dosent make sence... what kind of efficency are you talking? It will take more heat energy to keep and get a short wide kettle boiling. Also a short wide will have a higher boil off rate, which is fine if you are wanting to concentrate your wort. I believe the best kettle is just as tall as it is wide that has a decent boil off and dosent require too much energy to boil.
shallower grain beds are more efficient with sparging/mashing.... less depth to rinse sugars through...



 
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:50 PM   #22
DrewBrewTheGreat
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May 2011
jacksonville, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soviet View Post
I don't mind if it's weldless as long as it doesn't leakóI've seen enough good reviews of blichmann to know they put out a quality product. I'd go Stout on the mashtun too, but I really dig the design of the false bottom that's unique to blichmann (perforated screen designódoes polarware or any other brand of pot have this or something that works just as well?).

Anyway, I gotta generate a parts list and I need help:
  • 10" Banjo Burner
  • 15 Gal Stout Brew Kettle w/ Tangential Inlet
  • 15 gal Blichmann or Stout Mashtun w/ False Bottom (undecided)
  • 3 or 4 High-Temp Silicone Hoses
  • Stainless Quick Disconnects
  • Morebeer March Pump
  • Rims Module from Stout
  • Heating element (need help finding one compatible with Stout Rims Module)
  • PID (have no idea what to look for)
  • Blichmann Plate Chiller
  • L-Shape Brew Stand - need input on how to build this, but know a welder that can help
  • inexpensive vessel for the bottom tier (large picnic cooler?)
  • temperature probe (or do they come with PID?)
  • 4 wheels for brewstand
  • blichmann autosparge
  • lots of better bottles

What am I missing? What doesn't add up? Really appreciate all the help and opinions I've heard. Thank you guys.

The list looks good. A lot of fun. I don't see anything missing.

The specifics on the rims/pid and such, you'll just have to search around and copy/modify what other guys are doing--then find the best deals to purchase what is needed.

As for other stuff--i have so much damn brewing equipment... that list never ends and therefore is to hard compile. seems always changing and tweaking stuff.

Sometimes stuff I have, but haven't used for years-->finds new life to do something else...



 
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:34 PM   #23
BOBrob
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Oct 2010
escanaba, michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soviet View Post
I don't mind if it's weldless as long as it doesn't leakóI've seen enough good reviews of blichmann to know they put out a quality product. I'd go Stout on the mashtun too, but I really dig the design of the false bottom that's unique to blichmann (perforated screen designódoes polarware or any other brand of pot have this or something that works just as well?).

Anyway, I gotta generate a parts list and I need help:
  • 10" Banjo Burner
  • 15 Gal Stout Brew Kettle w/ Tangential Inlet
  • 15 gal Blichmann or Stout Mashtun w/ False Bottom (undecided)
  • 3 or 4 High-Temp Silicone Hoses
  • Stainless Quick Disconnects
  • Morebeer March Pump
  • Rims Module from Stout
  • Heating element (need help finding one compatible with Stout Rims Module)
  • PID (have no idea what to look for)
  • Blichmann Plate Chiller
  • L-Shape Brew Stand - need input on how to build this, but know a welder that can help
  • inexpensive vessel for the bottom tier (large picnic cooler?)
  • temperature probe (or do they come with PID?)
  • 4 wheels for brewstand
  • blichmann autosparge
  • lots of better bottles

What am I missing? What doesn't add up? Really appreciate all the help and opinions I've heard. Thank you guys.
Check out "Agri/supply" for burners, cookers, ect. Also if you are a handy builder check the thread for "soldering stainless steel" and make a keggle. Have fun, Merry X-Mas & Cheers

 
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:32 PM   #24
Soviet
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
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Dec 2008
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I'm personally not very handy, but I can get help where needed. A friend of mine's son is going to school for welding, so he can help a bit. I've thought about making a keggle but decided against it for a number of reasons. @BOBrob - is there a reason you recommend agri/supply? Everyone else, if nobody can think of what else I might be missing in my list, I better start pricing these items and ordering them.

 
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:36 PM   #25
Lucky_Chicken
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Jul 2011
Bloomfield, IA
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[quote=DrewBrewTheGreat;3590455][quote=jtsims21;3589566]
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewBrewTheGreat View Post
Also short and wide kettle are better for efficiency than tall and skinny ones.

shallower grain beds are more efficient with sparging/mashing.... less depth to rinse sugars through...
dough sorry i was thinking energy for boil... apparently i forgot which thread i was in.

thanks for straightening out.

 
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:09 PM   #26
DrewBrewTheGreat
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May 2011
jacksonville, Florida
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I can see how you would read it that way.... although, the wider kettles may be more efficient to heat--with direct gas fired anyway. The flame is heating a larger surface area on a wider kettle (the bottom of the kettle is larger) and, presumably, less heat is wasted going up and around the kettle. Probably negligible difference though.

I prefer the kegs--because of handles and ruggedness. But the 15 gallon morebeer or polarware kettles I think are the ideal design. Hell, I use a polarware kettle as a flat bottom fermenter---and FAR prefer it over my morebeer conical....

way less to take apart and clean, more durable, and can steam sanitize on the burner!

 
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:38 PM   #27
BOBrob
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Oct 2010
escanaba, michigan
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prices.

 
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:39 AM   #28
Soviet
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Dec 2008
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Ok, did my taxes and might have a bit more money to spend. Tell me what you think...

  • 19.8 Gal Stout Brew Kettle w/ Tangential Inlet - $579
  • 19.8 Stout Mashtun w/ False Bottom - $449
  • Rims Module from Stout - $140
  • 20 ft 1/2" Silicon Tubing - $50
  • 4 x C Style SS Quick disconnects - $23.80
  • 4 x A Style SS Quick Disconnects - $15
  • Morebeer.com H315HF March Pump - $150
  • Screw-In Heating element $20
  • Temperature Probe / Thermocouple ~$20-30
  • Omega CN7553 PID - $97
  • SSR - Why do I need this? - $15.00
  • Blichmann Plate Chiller -$195
  • inexpensive vessel for the bottom tier (large picnic cooler?) - $80?
  • blichmann top tier stand w/ 2 shelves, 1 burner, pumpmount, therminator mount - $808.94
  • blichmann autosparge - 49.95
  • lots of better bottles

Total so far: ~$2700

I hate to spend so much on a brew stand but I don't know how to weld nor have any desire to draft plans, find a welder, etc. I like that the blichmann stand is flexible enough to allow me to adjust heights, move things around, etc. Thoughts?

 
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:49 PM   #29
Lucky_Chicken
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Jul 2011
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if you are going electric you could make the stand out of wood

 
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:23 PM   #30
Soviet
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If you look at the diagrams on the first page of this thread, my design is RIMS with just one burner on the BK/HLT



 
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