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Old 12-15-2011, 08:40 PM   #1
yowbrew
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Mar 2011
Ottawa, ON
Posts: 5


Greetings,

I am starting to look at converting to electric. Currently I use a converted sanke as a HLT and boil kettle along with a 48 qt cooler as a MLT.

While I have searched through many threads I can;t seem to find one that has a simple setup/schematic for a controller that will allow me to use PIDs to control the same kettle for both hlt and boiling. I'm sure there is a thread and I just haven;t found it yet!

Can anyone give me some suggestions? I will be looking to set it up with a 5500 240V element. Anyone that can comment on any special considerations with the Ontario electrical code would be useful also!



 
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:43 PM   #2
Lucky_Chicken
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Jul 2011
Bloomfield, IA
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welcome to the forum and obcession!

PJ has some great diagrams for this stuff I am sure he has one that matches that.

some E-BIAB threads should get you the controller you are looking for... like this one http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/yet...-build-282235/



 
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:44 PM   #3
rosier9
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Dec 2010
Bellevue, NE
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Am I reading this correctly, you want one pid controlling one kettle (which you will use for hlt and bk)? If this is the case, it's only a matter of adjusting the temperature setting...
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:54 PM   #4
bigljd
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Oct 2010
Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosier9 View Post
Am I reading this correctly, you want one pid controlling one kettle (which you will use for hlt and bk)? If this is the case, it's only a matter of adjusting the temperature setting...
Adjusting the temp would be fine for heating the strike and sparge water, but that won't work for the boil. He'd need a PID with manual mode for the boil - the Auber 2352 would be ideal for that.
I agree that any of the e-BIAB threads floating around the electric forum would work well for this. Just make sure you have a GFCI breaker upstream from your panel to help protect you. P-J is definitely the man for diagrams.

 
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:19 AM   #5
yowbrew
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Mar 2011
Ottawa, ON
Posts: 5

Thanks for the replies - I didn't consider the E-BIAB option - I will have a look at those threads! The number of threads on electric kettles is overwhelming!!

@rosier9 That's exactly what I want to do - use it for strike water then to heat sparge water for batch sparging. Once the sparging it becomes the boil kettle. I guess down the road I will buy another vessel and then can have one dedicated to boiling - perhaps I can try to keep that in mind when making the control panel?

 
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:34 AM   #6
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
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Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,337
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You guys honor me. Thanks..!

yowbrew,

The controller you need to make is pictured in the following diagram. It uses a single Auber Instrument PID SYL-2352. This PID has a normal mode for temperature control. It also has a manual mode that allows you to set it to a percent of power so that you can easily control the boil rate in your kettle. The same setup can be modified later on so that you can control 2 kettles with the one PID. You would simply add a second contactor and element setup. You would then just need to change out switch #1 to a 3-Position Selector Switch <Click it). Most all of the controller components can be secured from Auber Instruments, including the project box to house it.

Ok - now on to the usual: Click on the image to see a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17").




I hope this helps you in your adventure.

P-J

Note: I forgot to mention that I think it is critical for you to set up your brewery power using GFCI circuit protection. You can get a very good GE Spa Panel from HomeDepot.

Reason: Added Note

 
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:52 PM   #7
Lucky_Chicken
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Jul 2011
Bloomfield, IA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
Note: I forgot to mention that I think it is critical for you to set up your brewery power using GFCI circuit protection. You can get a very good GE Spa Panel from HomeDepot.
for a lot of reasons... personal safety being the top and P-J's estop wont work without it being the bottom

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:08 PM   #8
yowbrew
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Mar 2011
Ottawa, ON
Posts: 5

P-J

Thanks for the drawing - this is along the lines of what I am thinking of. Now I need to come to grips with the cost of the GFCI breaker - I checked here at home depot (In Canada) and they run close to $200! Anyone else in Canada find a cheaper price for CSA-listed breakers?

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:22 PM   #9
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
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Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yowbrew View Post
P-J

Thanks for the drawing - this is along the lines of what I am thinking of. Now I need to come to grips with the cost of the GFCI breaker - I checked here at home depot (In Canada) and they run close to $200! Anyone else in Canada find a cheaper price for CSA-listed breakers?
HomeDepot offers a GE Spa Panel with a 50A GFCI breaker in it for $50 in the US. You might want to look into that and see if they have it available for you in Canada. If not, maybe you could tap a friend in the US?

Wiring the panel for your brew area is really simple. I've posted a few set up diagrams for it.

P-J

 
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:05 PM   #10
KitB
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Dec 2011
Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 78
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Can you tell me why the #1 switch & the coil are in there?
Are they necessary?



 
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