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Old 12-13-2011, 03:05 AM   #1
ISUBrew79
 
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I am starting to plan out the next stages of the single tier brew stand build that my brother and I are working on. Single Tier Build
We have revised our initial plans somewhat, and are now planning an all-electric HERMS system with elements in the HLT and BK, rather than the gas-fired system as we initially proposed. We will be running two pumps, fly sparging, and using a counterflow chiller for wort cooling. We plan to hard plumb the system with 1/2" stainless tubing and tri clover connections throughout.

I've been thinking of all the possible liquid transfers that might be carried out on a typical brewday and pondering how I might arrange the plumbing in the most efficient and least complex fashion. Does anyone have suggestions for plumbing my stand? I would really appreciate pictures of your hard-plumbed brewstands and/or diagrams of your plumbing arrangements.
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College Creek Brewing Company, est. 2008
Primary: Belma/Cascade Pale Ale, Cranberry Melomel
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Bottled: Imperial Pumpkin Ale, Founder's Breakfast Stout Clone

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Keg 1: Belgian Table Beer
Keg 2: Belgian Tripel

 
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Old 12-13-2011, 03:47 AM   #2
doctorsbro
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Hi, my brother posted above, im helping him on this build, somebody want to chime in on a topic for me to ease his mind?

here goes

I will be machining all of the tri clover fittings for this and hard plumbing the rig with .50" od x .065" wall stainless tubing, all will be welded with no compression fittings, tri clovers only. I will be using 3/8" stainless 3 piece ball valves.... now many of you are saying.... 3/8" why? thats toooo small!! I say bull honky, a 3/8" full port ball valve is actually a pipe size not tube size! So the inside dimension of the smallest port in the 3/8" ball valve is .493" id, the 1/2" stainless tube has an inside dimension of .37" which is smaller than the port in the ball valve.

What i am doing is making my own tri clover ball valves, taking the 3 piece ball valve apart and drilling out the threads in the ends and welding in 1/2" tube to a tri clover fitting.

Ease his mind so he stops cussing at me for wanting to use 3/8" valves over 1/2"....

 
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:47 AM   #3
DevilsCreekBrewing
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Cambridge Ontario
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My single tier is in the works, but my plan is very similar to yours. I am going to use 3/8" SS ball valves with 1/2" SS tubing. I don't have a diagram, as we are still in the frame build stage, but I have used the same setup with waste water treatment setups I have done.

Depending on the layout, the 2 things I would want to work out if I WAS to use 1/2" ball valves would be the possible suction cavitation caused, or excessive vacuum creation causing grain bed compaction.

/great build btw guys, I enjoyed your build thread thoroughly.

 
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:17 AM   #4
OneHoppyGuy
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makes sense to me... a whole lot of extra work, but it does make sense
are you going to rifle the inside of the tubing to improve flow? (just kidding)

 
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:14 PM   #5
USCDiver
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Have you guys started the hard plumbing on your rig yet? I was looking at using the 1" tri clamp ferrules because they're cheaper than the 1/2" and their internal diameter is closer to 1/2" hose (using a 1/2" hose stretched onto a 1" ferrule x 3/4" hose barb fitting.) However I can't see any reasonable way of using them in a hard plumbed setup and I don't want to lose the diameter by using the 1/2" ferrules. 3/4" ferrules are An option, but even more expensive!

 
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:21 PM   #6
motobrewer
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like....this guy??

http://www.winning-homebrew.com/reci...sh-system.html
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:36 AM   #7
ISUBrew79
 
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We have not begun hard plumbing the stand yet. Unfortunately, the build progress has slowed due to a number of factors. Right now my brother is working on getting a stainless control panel enclosure fabricated. I have to buy a tremendous amount of parts before we are ready to start plumbing up the stand. Also, I currently live in an apartment and have nowhere to put the stand when it is done. The majority of this build will have to wait until I can find a house.

I did, however, find a very good source for tri clamp fittings. Check out jmesanitary.com. They have very competitive prices and high quality products.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motobrewer View Post
We plan to do something very similar to this. It looks like 1/2" OD SS tubing, which is what we plan to use (1/2" OD x 0.0625" wall thickness, I think). I'm not too concerned with the reduced flow of the ~3/8 ID of this tubing versus 1/2" ID, but we shall see.

Unlike the picture which uses 1"-1.5" tri clamp fittings, we will be using the 1/2"-3/4" tri clamp ferrules, clamps, and gaskets to make all the connections. JME Sanitary has very good pricing on these fittings, and will allow us to weld the 1/2" SS tube directly to the ferrules to provide a nice, smooth inner contour in the plumbing.
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College Creek Brewing Company, est. 2008
Primary: Belma/Cascade Pale Ale, Cranberry Melomel
Secondary: None
Bottled: Imperial Pumpkin Ale, Founder's Breakfast Stout Clone

On Tap:
Keg 1: Belgian Table Beer
Keg 2: Belgian Tripel

 
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Old 03-18-2012, 01:12 PM   #8
Dennisusa
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Apr 2010
Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorsbro View Post
What i am doing is making my own tri clover ball valves, taking the 3 piece ball valve apart and drilling out the threads in the ends and welding in 1/2" tube to a tri clover fitting.
.
Hey, doctorsbro, I don't know if you've seen the sanitary ball valves that Darrin carries at Brewers Hardware, but check them out before you fabricate your own. He also carries a very nice 3-way tri-clover valve which I'm deploying in my rig to simplify layout and allow for a cleaner design. http://www.brewershardware.com/1-Tri...all-Valve.html

 
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