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Old 12-07-2011, 05:16 PM   #1
derekge
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Question: when should I pull the Krausen Collar?

Coopers kit; lager; day 4. So it looks likes the bubbles raised and receded in my FV but not all the way (the center has less). I'm at a solid 22C and I know that is closer to the low end - it's been 4 days since I pitched the wort, should I wait until the bubbles are mostly gone to pull the krausen collar? The recommendation in the instructions just said 12 - 24 hours but I think at lower temps it takes longer. I've attached pics (including the bottom sediment).

Thanks.
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:30 PM   #2
Krane
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What is a krausen collar? My only guess is the residue left behind after the krausen falls...but why do you need to remove it?

 
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:42 PM   #3
unionrdr
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The krausen collar is the center piece of the new cooper's DIY fermenter. When the krausen goes down below the bottom level of the collar,you remove the lid,then remove the krausen collar,& replace the lid.
This is the same as the smaller head space normally associated with a secondary.
So you basically wait until the krausen goes below the level where the bottom of the krausen collar drops into place.
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:49 PM   #4
derekge
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Krausen Collar is part of the new coopers kit design - it takes the place of the airlock and is essentially there to ensure that the floating detritus from the bubbling process is left out of the final fermentation, as well as provide extra space should the bubbling be ferocious.

 
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:54 PM   #5
derekge
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Thanks unionrdr - I will check it tonight. It seemed to be moving outward and "clinging" to the sides. Also: does the sediment on the bottom look normal?

 
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:03 PM   #6
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yeah,that's fairly normal settlings. It looks like you got some cold break settling out too. I always thought it looked like wet popcorn. The receding krausen will also leave a lot of greasy gunk on the sides of the FV. In your case,on the krausen collar. So removing the collar gets a lot of gunk out of the process when you remove it. That was another point of it's creation according to cooper's. But it's the lid design that replaces the airlock. They give you lid clamps,but many so far aren't using them so the excess co2 has a means of escape that won't let nasties in.
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:13 PM   #7
bomberman
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I just remove mine when the krausen drops. Definitely comes in handy when it's time to clean the FV.

 
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:27 PM   #8
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Cooper's also says it's dishwasher safe,making clean up even easier! That was a cool point.
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derekge View Post
Coopers kit; lager; day 4.
...
I'm at a solid 22C and I know that is closer to the low end
...
...but I think at lower temps it takes longer.
These lines jumped out as me as being...odd.

First off, if it's truly a lager (someone with more knowledge of the Coopers kits can probably help verify this), then 22C is by no means close to a low end. In fact, it's WAY too warm for a true lager yeast. It's actually a little too warm for a clean fermentation with many ale yeasts.

Is that temp correct? Did you maybe mean 12C?

 
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:45 PM   #10
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The Original Series (I call OS) lager that comes with the cooper's brewing kits is an ale. Cooper's 7g ale yeast packet inside the LME can's false lid. So it's really a light pale ale. 22C is about 72F. The cooper's ale yeast is said to be best between 62F & 72F. I keep it at 68F (20C) if I can. Pretty good when brewed correctly. I've since came up with a Sam Adam's summer ale clone using it that my wife has in bottles now. Anyway,it was just screaming for an once of Kent Golding,& an ounce of Willamette. Two perfect hop flavors for an English ale version. Or Czech Saaz,& US Perle for a more German spicy,floral/herbal thing. Both are good.
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