Joeybeer's Single Vessel 5500w Artsy Build - Home Brew Forums

Register Now!
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Joeybeer's Single Vessel 5500w Artsy Build

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 11-29-2011, 05:11 PM   #1
joeybeer
Recipes 
 
Dec 2009
Posts: 524
Liked 11 Times on 11 Posts



I brew about 2 x 10gallon batches and 2 x 5 gallon batches per month and I'm planning on switching over my single vessel keggle, cooler mashtun all-grain propane setup to electric. I need to have some work done on the electric panel in the house, so I figure while the electrician's here - why not !

I'm doing a few things different than normal (as usual) and wanted to run some ideas past the far more knowledgeable people than me on this forum, so I figure I'll fire away with off the wall questions, eventually come to some sort of conclusion, and document the build with photos for people to search for in the future !

So here goes :

1) I want to design my control panel visually, with a little room for upgrades, then figure out how to wire it (I've been studying P-J's diagrams for a while now, and I'm not thinking of anything too off the wall, just a slight modification)

2) I have a stainless control box already, it's 14.75" x 7" and 6" deep, and instead of putting the switches through the door, I'd like to mount them in wood inset inside the door, leaving around 4" behind the face. Is that enough space for a SSR ?

3) Is the Auber PID really that small ?? 1/16din is only 1.89"x1.89", i thought it would be twice that size !

4) I'm considering mounting the element to a 1.5" triclover cap with metal work box, and welding a 1.5 triclover on the back of the keggle. I'm thinking that for simplicity (and $) sake, I would wire it straight into the control panel without a 30amp locking receptacle and plug. I'll just undo the triclamp after I powerdown and unplug the control panel, then store the CP and the element together. Has anyone else done that ??

Thanks so much for any help !

Here is a pic of my current plan (I want to include the HLT BK selector for a future upgrade)

The switches are all the usual stuff :
Estop - automationdirect.com GCX3139
Selectors (PID, Alarm, Fan, Pump) - Grainger 2VLN5
Kettle select lights - Grainger 1XWL6
Kettle select switch - Grainger 2TPF8 ?
Alarm Buzzer - Auber FLBuz






I've learned so much on this forum already !

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 05:20 PM   #2
joeybeer
Recipes 
 
Dec 2009
Posts: 524
Liked 11 Times on 11 Posts


Just noticed how similar P-J's diagram is to my idea (minus the alarm and HLT BK lights)

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/imag...30a-e-stop.jpg

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 06:27 PM   #3
Lucky_Chicken
 
Lucky_Chicken's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Jul 2011
Bloomfield, IA
Posts: 795
Liked 37 Times on 27 Posts


I think the depth of the PID will be a bigger concern. The SSR itself should be relatively thin but the heat sink will be a lot larger thats why most people put them outside the box.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 06:46 PM   #4
shortyjacobs
Recipes 
 
Aug 2009
Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 2,509
Liked 34 Times on 34 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybeer View Post
2) I have a stainless control box already, it's 14.75" x 7" and 6" deep, and instead of putting the switches through the door, I'd like to mount them in wood inset inside the door, leaving around 4" behind the face. Is that enough space for a SSR ?

3) Is the Auber PID really that small ?? 1/16din is only 1.89"x1.89", i thought it would be twice that size !

4) I'm considering mounting the element to a 1.5" triclover cap with metal work box, and welding a 1.5 triclover on the back of the keggle. I'm thinking that for simplicity (and $) sake, I would wire it straight into the control panel without a 30amp locking receptacle and plug. I'll just undo the triclamp after I powerdown and unplug the control panel, then store the CP and the element together. Has anyone else done that ??

Thanks so much for any help !
The SSR will fit, (it's about 3.5" tall, give or take, after mounting it on the heat sink). The PID will be a very tight fit though...it's just about bang on at 4". The PID really is 1.9"x1.9"...but that's big enough to get the job done.

As for #4, I haven't seen that, but it should work. I went a different route. I got a 4' 3 wire dryer cord, chopped it to about 1", and wired that to the element. I have an outlet mounted to the brew table in a $4 splashproof enclosure, (looks like this), and used the remaining 3 feet of dryer cord to go from the outlet to my control panel. The wire was $9, the outlet was $6. Total cost, $20, and half of that was just the cost of the cord. You won't find 10/3 wire for less than $2/ft, and mine was $2.25/ft including the plug....cheap, and it gives you the ability to disconnect the element from the control panel so you can bring it over to your sink and clean it.
__________________
Itchy Dog Brewery.

(As of 10-24-2011)
Primary - Steppe 112 PA, 2x Monday RyePA
Aging - None :-(
On tap - Big Dog, Apfelwein, Steppe 112 PA

My invisible AG sculpture, with no actual sculpture and a tiny footprint.
My Kegerator goes offroading!
My Coors Home Draft dispenser for boating/beering on the go.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 08:00 PM   #5
joeybeer
Recipes 
 
Dec 2009
Posts: 524
Liked 11 Times on 11 Posts


Great idea ShortyJacobs ! I'll add that to the list of things to think through ! BTW your kegerator is great !

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 08:42 PM   #6
lazybean
Recipes 
 
Sep 2009
San Diego
Posts: 177
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts


I'm a little confused by your wood inset idea. are you talking about cutting out part of the SS door and mounting a piece of wood?

That would mean you lose any water resistance. You could also have a hard time mounting the switches, since they are usually designed to be mounted to thinner material, usually thinner then 1/4". From a electricians POV, the code says any combustible material can not be part of an electrical enclosure.

Not deal breakers but some considerations.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 10:16 PM   #7
bowhuntah
Registered User
Recipes 
 
Jun 2011
Windham, Maine
Posts: 111
Liked 2 Times on 1 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybeer View Post
4) I'm considering mounting the element to a 1.5" triclover cap with metal work box, and welding a 1.5 triclover on the back of the keggle. I'm thinking that for simplicity (and $) sake, I would wire it straight into the control panel without a 30amp locking receptacle and plug. I'll just undo the triclamp after I powerdown and unplug the control panel, then store the CP and the element together. Has anyone else done that ??
Why not just get a 1.5" TC x 1" NPT adaptor?

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 11:17 PM   #8
joeybeer
Recipes 
 
Dec 2009
Posts: 524
Liked 11 Times on 11 Posts


Lazybean - Thanks for the heads up ! Actually, I'm planning on putting the wood 1" deep inside the door. If that makes sense...

You'll open the sealed door with a latch, then swing it open to reveal the wood panel inside, it should be more waterproof than the normal exposed switches, but I see what you mean about the wood in the panel.. hopefully it'll be fine

Bowhuntah - That puppy is like $70 bucks !! I'm just going to drill out a $3 - 1.5" TC cap, then either use a weldless fitting, or get my welder friend to TIG on a 1" nut

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 11:22 PM   #9
joeybeer
Recipes 
 
Dec 2009
Posts: 524
Liked 11 Times on 11 Posts


My next step is to drill out the holes for the fittings in the wood. I don't see any other glaring problems so far..

My next steps will be to double check the holes & layout, drill and finish the wood and graphics, then order the triclamp parts and send them off to the welder with my kettle. (I hope to brew one more batch before then)

I did notice that contactors are more pricey that I thought. Is anyone using a heavy duty switch without them ? How safe/scary is that ?

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 11:25 PM   #10
bowhuntah
Registered User
Recipes 
 
Jun 2011
Windham, Maine
Posts: 111
Liked 2 Times on 1 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybeer View Post
Bowhuntah - That puppy is like $70 bucks !! I'm just going to drill out a $3 - 1.5" TC cap, then either use a weldless fitting, or get my welder friend to TIG on a 1" nut
$14 at Stpats.

 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Stovetop 110v single vessel system klyph Electric Brewing 45 09-04-2013 04:59 PM
Looking to start AG soon and want to go with BIAB single vessel electric brewing Garrett Electric Brewing 34 11-15-2012 12:41 PM
40 Paces Brewery, Single Vessel e-BIAB howabouttheiris Electric Brewing 31 11-05-2012 10:05 PM
Another P-J Diagram: BIAB 5500W Single Vessel Single Pump, Illuminated Switches johnodon Electric Brewing 38 09-16-2012 03:56 AM
Single vessel BIAB electric build thughes Electric Brewing 56 04-15-2012 12:42 AM


Forum Jump