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Old 12-01-2011, 12:05 AM   #11
mrbippers
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Apr 2011
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Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
Most lugs are not rated for more than one conductor so adding another tap to your feed through lugs may not be correct. You could replace the stove panel with a small load-center and gain a few future breakers while at it. Six service disconnects is the rule. You have two now if I understand correctly.
That's probably what I'll wind up doing, just means I need to upgrade to thicker copper feeding the sub panel. I had some 10G around and was trying to save time. Only in the house another year so trying to minimize my investments.

Also, if I'm going to go with the switch would it make more sense to put it upstream of the PID? That way when I cut the power with the switch it kills the PID and the element at the same time.

 
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:29 AM   #12
lschiavo
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Also, if I'm going to go with the switch would it make more sense to put it upstream of the PID? That way when I cut the power with the switch it kills the PID and the element at the same time.
You certainly could. That way it would be a MAIN switch for the box.

 
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:53 AM   #13
lazybean
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L630 is a 240v only, if you use the ground as a neutral you will trip the GFCI instantly.
the NEMA L1430 is rated for 120/240, it is 4wire(2 hots,1 neutral, 1 ground)

 
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:00 AM   #14
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L630 is a 240v only, if you use the ground as a neutral you will trip the GFCI instantly.
the NEMA L1430 is rated for 120/240, it is 4wire(2 hots,1 neutral, 1 ground)
The Auber PID can be powered by a range of AC voltage I believe. I assumed it was powered with 240V in this circuit. It should be ok I think.

 
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:19 AM   #15
lazybean
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My bad, when i looked at the wiring diagram i thought he had the SSR and Controler running 120 off the ground.

Should put my beer down when posting.

 
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:25 AM   #16
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Should put my beer down when posting.
Never! I almost always post with beer in hand. It keeps things interesting

 
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