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Old 07-24-2012, 11:38 AM   #51
bigljd
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There is a formula in the middle of the page below from Kal that gives you theoretical heating times for electric water heating. That might help you. I think 10 gals at 70 degrees taken to a full boil would take about an hour. I just know that I can heat about 10-11 gal to strike temp in about the same amount of time it takes to crush my grain and get my other stuff ready for the brew day. While I'm sparging I'll start slowly heating the wort in the kettle once the wort level is comfortably above the element (element at about 65-70%), so that my wort is almost to a boil by the time my sparge is done. When my sparge is finished I may have to give it full power for a few minutes and I'll be at a rolling boil.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/fo...c.php?p=284087

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Old 07-27-2012, 03:22 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by lunchbox View Post
bigljd, I'd love to check out your rig. It's a bit overwhelming to jump into electric when you have little to no experience with that type of stuff.
Funny, I completely missed your post here since I was replying to another post at the same time you posted this. I'll send you a PM with my address, and you can check it out sometime (or I'm brewing Saturday am, so you can see it in action then too).


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Old 01-21-2015, 01:59 PM   #53
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I'd like to start off by saying thanks so much for this thread. I am in the last few steps putting this exact set up together and I could not have done it without all of this great info. I did have one question regarding this statement.
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Originally Posted by bigljd View Post
1. Yes, I soldered the 4 resistors in series, and on 1 end of the chain I soldered a ring connector, and on the other I soldered the wire that runs to the E-stop switch. Then I heat shrinked the resistors. You can sort of see them in the picture running along the bottom of the panel behind the 120v receptacles to the ground post.
This makes it sound as if the 1 amp fuse and resistors are between the E-Stop and the ground. But the wiring diagram on the first page show the fuse and resistors between the load and the E-Stop button. Can someone confirm for me which way it should be? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:07 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by BuddhaNole View Post
I'd like to start off by saying thanks so much for this thread. I am in the last few steps putting this exact set up together and I could not have done it without all of this great info. I did have one question regarding this statement.
This makes it sound as if the 1 amp fuse and resistors are between the E-Stop and the ground. But the wiring diagram on the first page show the fuse and resistors between the load and the E-Stop button. Can someone confirm for me which way it should be? Thanks in advance.
Hi - The diagram does show the resistors before e-stop button, but I did wire in the resistors after the button. I did not use the 1 amp fuse, after having a discussion it was determined that the fuse was not needed, since if the fuse failed then the e-stop circuit would fail. Ideally I'd say to have the resistors before the e-stop button, but the circuit will work fine if you place them after. The point of the resistors is to limit the load that gets sent to the GFCI breaker when the e-stop button is pushed. Only a small current is needed to trip the GFCI. The resistors will limit the load if they are before or after the button.

EDIT: If you do have the resistors before the e-stop button, be sure to shield the soldered connections well, since they will be carrying a load 100% of the time that the panel is powered up. If you have the resistors after the button, they should still be shielded well, but will only carry a load for a brief moment after the button is pushed and before the GFCI trips.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:52 PM   #55
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That's sort of what I thought, but I'm no electrician. Thanks so much for your help bigljd.


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