hmm... so that parts list is certainly the ideal way to do it.
However could you cut some corners by having most of the parts copper?brass?
If so which ones? Could you simply use a brass nipple/brass lock nut/on the inside and the O ring/brass or copper ball valve with a brass or copper barb fitting on the outside?
You would need some way to attach whatever kind of hopstopper/false bottom/bazooka tube you want on the inside but you could do that a couple of ways i'd think.
I'm glad this came up as I was going to go nuts and get it all from northwest brewer once I started looking at the total from McMaster-carr and want to get a pump anyhow... but now i've started thinking many things won't be necessary. For instance I see no need to put a female coupler inside the HLT if there isn't going to be anything on it and I can do the same thing with a lock nut. I was going to get a brewmometer for all three kegs untill Yuri pointed out he doesn't like his and then I thought... wait why do I even need one for the brew pot? and it would be better to have a digital probe for the mashtun so that I can see what its like at different points in the mash bed...and if I go to a rims/herms i'll likely just put the temp probe on the output before the return to the mashtun anyhow... hmm... I'll bring up RIM/HERM debate in another thread.
anyhow, my point is that it seems like we could do this all a little cheaper and wiser so as to avoid the "must have stainless fittings, site/temp on everything!" factor. While I know i'd like that... I get carried away and I won't have anything left to get grain
oh and it seems to be impossible to get stainless parts off the shelf in Seattle by the way. What is up with that? is it just so uncommon a demand that they don't bother? LAME! perhaps if it really is necessary to get them a few of us in the Seattle area that are putting things together could get it all bulk and take care of shipping together at least (and besides I have at least one extra keg as of right now).