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Old 10-27-2011, 01:39 AM   #21
Chia
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I have found that 3-4 weeks after brewing is just not long enough for some of the flavors to come out. that being said i have drank a lot my beers that change in taste from day to day! i try and let them all sit 5-6 weeks just because, in my mind, it is what i think is right...not that it is right....
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:35 AM   #22
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so are you guys in the 1-2 week camp going by hydrometer readings only? and how long are you bottle conditioning after the short ferment? I dont like to wait ,,but I also dont like funky beer

 
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:43 AM   #23
truckndad
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I try to go four weeks in the bottle at least. Takes at least a week to carbonate, then I just let it sit for a while after that.

 
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Old 10-27-2011, 04:09 AM   #24
gr8shandini
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spam View Post
so are you guys in the 1-2 week camp going by hydrometer readings only? and how long are you bottle conditioning after the short ferment? I dont like to wait ,,but I also dont like funky beer
Gravity readings, yes, but more importantly, taste. I keg, so I don't bother making sure my FG is exactly the same for 3 days. If it's in the ballpark of where I expect it to be, I just give it a taste and decide whether or not it needs more time. 95% of the time, it goes in the keg. Occasionally, I'll have some diacetyl to get rid of and I might warm it up for few days to make sure the yeast stays active.

Also, for the fellow who mentioned "pitching from the vial"; I know I'm in a minority of a minority around here, but I don't think that has anything to do with off flavors which would require clean up. The way I see it, if I'm spending good money on liquid yeast, it's because I want the unique esters they provide and "underpitching" actually helps get what I'm looking for in the finished beer (I should note that I almost exclusively brew in the 1.040 to 1.065 range). If I want a "clean" beer, it gets a sachet of S-05 which would be the proper pitching rate.

Temperature, on the other hand, can definitely get you into trouble. I don't care how much yeast you pitch, if your internal temps are near or above the top of the recommended range for your yeast, you're gonna have some nasty problems. Get your temps under control before you ever worry about a starter.

 
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Old 10-27-2011, 04:21 AM   #25
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Depends on a lot of variables for me but I lean to the less than 4 weeks side. I like to let my big beers and dark beers sit longer but alot of that time is in bottles.

 
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Old 10-27-2011, 04:25 AM   #26
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This is the internet, opinions vary. People read a post or article and run with what they read as gospel. When an opportunity arises in a forum to regurgitate what they believe is correct they will post it as gospel. Your mission if you decide to accept it, is to take what you read and apply it to your circumstance. They're are so many different variables that it's not a one size fits all answer. The answer to your original question has already been answered here (yoop, yoop) so I wont add to that.

 
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:49 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spam View Post
so are you guys in the 1-2 week camp going by hydrometer readings only? and how long are you bottle conditioning after the short ferment? I dont like to wait ,,but I also dont like funky beer
I rarely go only one week, it's usually about two, unless I'm making a mild or something and using highly flocculant yeast. Two weeks (including dryhopping) is about right usually.

But I don't go strictly by hydrometer readings. The FG is probably reached by day 3, usually. I wait until about day 10-12 to either keg or dryhop. At that time, I check the beer. When I pull out a sample, I check the FG and then hold the sample up to the light and check for clarity. I taste it. If it's not ready (it almost always is), then I don't package the beer at that time.

As was mentioned, there are a couple of keys to doing this. One is to pitch enough yeast, to approximate professional pitch rates. Keep the fermentation temperature controlled. Use a highly flocculant yeast, although some hard-to-clear beers will clear with cold treatment. I'm with pseudochef- S05 can be a bugger to clear. But it still clears with a week in the keg at cold temperatures.

I want a beer that looks, smells and tastes like it could be a commercial beer. I don't want a cloudy, yeasty, "homebrew". This technique works for me quite well, and I'm happy with it.

There are lots of different techniques and opinions, so I think everybody should try different techniques and see what is best for them.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:16 PM   #28
badmajon
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Hmm, this is an interesting thread. I usually go 3 weeks for ales less than 6%, and then 4 for ales higher than 6% and (mock) lagers.

I have a carboy full of an IPA that is dry hopping now (10 days old), I was going to let it sit until next weekend (10 days from now) but now I might just keg it this weekend and have a taste.

 
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:20 PM   #29
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This thread is mind blowing!

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Old 10-27-2011, 12:25 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badmajon View Post
I have a carboy full of an IPA that is dry hopping now (10 days old), I was going to let it sit until next weekend (10 days from now) but now I might just keg it this weekend and have a taste.
I think what's being suggested is just the opposite. Draw a sample and "have a taste". Then decide if it's ready to keg.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
. . . When I pull out a sample, I check the FG and then hold the sample up to the light and check for clarity. I taste it. If it's not ready (it almost always is), then I don't package the beer at that time.

 
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