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Old 10-13-2011, 11:47 PM   #21
WhineinAlbany
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May 2011
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1) I've never used a bucket for primary. I couldn't stand the lids when I made wine, and I still don't want to deal with snapping them on for beer. Yes, carboys are more $$, but I don't want the hassle. I have 2 buckets that use for cleaning stuff now.

2) I never use a hydrometer, but I only do extract brews and trust that the calculated FG will be close what it really is. I just leave it in the primary for 2 weeks and then secondary for another 2. I don't want to waste beer (yes, I know I can drink my samples but I don't want flat beer). And yes, I do own a hydrometer. It's collecting dust.

 
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:47 PM   #22
Hammy71
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I never hydrate dry yeast. I 'clean' the beer lines on my keggers once a year (if I remember.....). I don't boil my starters in the flask, just use an old sauce pan and pour in. I never use a lid on my brew kettle, even when whirlpooling or chilling ( I mean really, the lid gets condensation on it and it drips back into the wort....that's worse than the chance of an insect to me).

 
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:18 AM   #23
Airborneguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhineinAlbany View Post
1) I've never used a bucket for primary. I couldn't stand the lids when I made wine, and I still don't want to deal with snapping them on for beer. Yes, carboys are more $$, but I don't want the hassle.
Forget the money: you find cleaning and moving carboys to be less of a hassle than snapping a lid on? More power to you, but I find your choice to be more work than choice B.
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:29 AM   #24
Lucky_Chicken
 
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i dont use soap after a brew day/ transfering... i store my gear in the garage and I have to clean it before i use it again anyway... i just hose it off

I dont take hydrometer readings until i decide its done and regardless of what it says its going in a keg/ bottle

 
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:39 AM   #25
BenS
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Mar 2009
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I have 2 airlocks and 4 primary fermenters. I use tin foil as an airlock often. I use a oil fryer thermometer as a mash thermometer. There are only dashes every 5F. 145-150F is a light bodied beer, 150-155 is med body, 155-160 is full bodied.

 
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:45 AM   #26
beowulf
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I often rack beer on full yeastcakes, even when it's waaaayyyyy too much yeast by most peoples' standards. Only beer I brewed that won best of show was racked onto a full yeastcake. Go figure...
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:00 AM   #27
rycov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71 View Post
I never hydrate dry yeast. I 'clean' the beer lines on my keggers once a year (if I remember.....).
glad i'm not the only one
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I'm getting ingredients in the mail today, and I can't even taste my beer yet. What should I do?
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I would make a yeast starter, and pitch it into your mailbox.

 
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:27 AM   #28
BetterSense
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Jul 2011
Richardson, Texas
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I brew outside, and fill everything from my garden hose.

 
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:32 AM   #29
jfr1111
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Sep 2010
Quebec, Quebec
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1) I don't wait more than 10 days before bottling most of the time (altough I do take hydro readings religiously)
2) I don't bother with airlocks anymore.
3) I rarely measure the temperature of my sparge water. If it feels hot enough to the touch, it's good enough to sparge with.
4) My brew kettle is a dirty, ugly, soothy thing, but I don't clean it. The crud is all on the outside !
5) I use bleach to sanitize.

 
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:50 AM   #30
LVBen
 
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I've done several 'no chill' batches.
I do SUPER thin mashes. (All water goes in at the same time. No sparging, no topping off, etc.) (ex. 8 pounds of grain with 7 gallons of water.)
I've done 45-minute mashes. I might even try for 30 minutes one of these days.
Sometimes I keg first and then check the gravity (knowing that it is already done without checking with a hydrometer.)
I don't vorlauf.
I don't use a typical mash tun. I mash in my boil kettle and then filter the grains out with my bottling bucket lined with a paint strainer bag.
I use non-food-grade CO2.

 
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