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Old 12-07-2012, 02:41 PM   #121
Rake_Rocko
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Mar 2012
Wilmington, Illinois
Posts: 87
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I think that using beeswax would be an awesome finish for hardwood, however since it doesn't penetrate the wood that well and makes a sort of coat on the wood, I wouldn't think it would be good for a paddle.

I feel like putting it in hot wort would slowly melt the wax off into it. Obviously no one wants beeswax in their wort haha so IMO, I wouldn't stay away from it.

If your heart is set on beeswax, I've heard of many people finishing hardwood with a mineral oil, beeswax mixture. But again, the wax is almost certain to get in the hot wort. That is my thinking atleast.

 
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:23 PM   #122
bierandbikes
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Dec 2011
Stewart's Run Farm, near Fredericksburg, VA
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As I suspected on the beeswax. I just feel like I need to use something to protect the wood...or at least keep it from checking after a few brews. It sounds like mineral oil is the way to go. I have some rough sawn white oak curing in the barn. Been there for about 4-5 months. I am anxious to get started despite knowing that I should wait a year for the 1 inch thick planks to properly cure.

 
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:22 PM   #123
Rake_Rocko
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Mar 2012
Wilmington, Illinois
Posts: 87
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I would say mineral oil is your best bet...

As with anything in homebrewing, it's best to wait it out and not rush things.

If you are that anxious, go to Home Depot or wherever and get a single plank and make one out of that. I got my 1x6 piece of red oak from Home Depot for $10. Not to shabby I thought.

 
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:46 PM   #124
BrewDoc22
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Jun 2012
IowaCity, IA
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Made this just yesterday. I crafted it from a 1"x6"x4' piece of cherry wood. I used a jig saw as well as a power drill to start the inner cuts. Smoothed it out using a rotary sander and finished with a light coating of food-grade mineral oil.


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Old 01-05-2013, 02:49 PM   #125
Rake_Rocko
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Mar 2012
Wilmington, Illinois
Posts: 87
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Brewdoc that is a nice looking paddle. I like the way the mineral oil pulled out the grains. Very nice. I just used mine for the first time the other day and man am I glad I made one! It made stirring the mash much easier and more enjoyable!

 
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:57 PM   #126
BrewDoc22
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Jun 2012
IowaCity, IA
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Thanks! I'm very pleased with it as well. My Dad and I are going to break it in with a batch of American Strong Ale on Monday. Can't wait to see how this thing handles 20 lbs. of grain!
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:14 PM   #127
KingKlong
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May 2012
Kernersville, NC
Posts: 147
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I am about to make a paddle from a 1 x 6 x 4 of Red Oak. Can anyone recommend how to determine dimensions? Should I leave it at 4' long? How long should the blade be? How thick should I leave the handle?

If it helps for answering, my mash tun is a round, 10 gallon igloo cooler like many people use.

BrewDoc22....I'm lookin' at you since you are the most recent poster, and started with a board the same size.

Also, where can I find mineral oil?

 
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:25 AM   #128
BrewDoc22
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Jun 2012
IowaCity, IA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingKlong View Post
I am about to make a paddle from a 1 x 6 x 4 of Red Oak. Can anyone recommend how to determine dimensions? Should I leave it at 4' long? How long should the blade be? How thick should I leave the handle?

If it helps for answering, my mash tun is a round, 10 gallon igloo cooler like many people use.

BrewDoc22....I'm lookin' at you since you are the most recent poster, and started with a board the same size.

Also, where can I find mineral oil?
Ask and you shall receive!

Here are the dimensions I used for my mash paddle. You will notice that the width of the board doesn't quite add up to 6". I think most boards cut to the 1"x6"x4' dimensions actually measure about 5 1/2" wide and 3/4" thick.

I didn't include the inner pattern simply because it was more of a free-form design with the help of a straight edge. I'd suggest making the outer borders at least 1.25" thick though, just to make sure it is sturdy enough.

I bought the mineral oil at my local supermarket. It was right next to the wood cutting boards. Just make sure it is 100% mineral oil and that it's the stuff used for protecting cutting boards, wood bowls, etc. I would also suggest letting it dry for at least a few days before using it.

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Old 01-06-2013, 08:25 PM   #129
KingKlong
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May 2012
Kernersville, NC
Posts: 147
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That has to be one of the best, if not the best, replies I've ever gotten when I asked a question. Thanks for the drawing man. I can draw it up in CAD at work now, and print a template full size, or just go to work with my tape and rule.

 
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:08 AM   #130
Xakk
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Feb 2009
Tulsa, OK
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It's not the fanciest, but I put this together in a few hours this afternoon. Lowe's didn't have maple so it's 4x red oak sealed with mineral oil.
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