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Old 09-22-2011, 06:21 AM   #1
runningweird
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I have been struggling to find a home for my keezer( that is yet unbuilt) the freezer is 26 cubic feet - a big one I know -and our house is small. I have a 6 tap perlick glycol tower that I was planning on mounting on top. As I type this its 2 am and I can't sleep so I am a bit whimsical. So here is my idea - freezer in basement, run insulated lines through a vent or something, pump chilled salt water through the old glycol lines(made of copper). Then put the tower on top of a cabinet/stand with a relatively small footprint( will help win SWMBO over)(if we had more room she would have no problem) I plan on running the beer lines in a bundle with the glycol line coiled around it and then clad that in armaflex pipe insulation, and perhaps stuff all that into a pvc pipe to add stability.

My question is this: is there a cheap pump that will pump liquid up 12 feet and down again in a recirculating system? I have seen posts on here about doing something similar to this but no specific pumps are mentioned.

Thanks

 
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:28 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runningweird View Post
pump chilled salt water through the old glycol lines(made of copper).
Thanks
salt water and copper(almoust any metal) don't mix well. Copper will corode after a wile and salt will eat thru the pipe wall. why salt water? just go with a glycol agane.
don't know about that pump.
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:24 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bohdan987 View Post
salt water and copper(almoust any metal) don't mix well. Copper will corode after a wile and salt will eat thru the pipe wall. why salt water? just go with a glycol agane.
don't know about that pump.
Copper and salt water are fine together - They use copper on ship bottoms after-all. What happens is that the copper forms an oxide which protects the copper from further corrosion. Even that small oxidation the rating for yearly degradation of copper in the ocean is something like 25 microns.

why salt water - inhibition of bacteria, easy to make and replace. I would use the food safe glycol if I can find it but I want to keep this as cheap as possible.

 
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Old 09-22-2011, 01:47 PM   #4
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http://ozbo.com/070532-Propylene-Gly...:referralID=NA
a little expensive but will do a much better job of heat transfer

 
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Old 09-22-2011, 03:00 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by chemman14 View Post
http://ozbo.com/070532-Propylene-Gly...:referralID=NA
a little expensive but will do a much better job of heat transfer

i'd go a little cheaper, but that's just me

http://www.ruralking.com/rv-antifree...36373730303335

 
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Old 09-22-2011, 03:46 PM   #6
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If the cooling loop's return hose is submerged in the liquid in the reservoir, the pump doesn't have to pump 12' of head.
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Old 09-22-2011, 04:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
If the cooling loop's return hose is submerged in the liquid in the reservoir, the pump doesn't have to pump 12' of head.
Please explain this to me in terms a child would understand.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runningweird View Post
Please explain this to me in terms a child would understand.
The liquid going downhill pulls the liquid going uphill.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 944play View Post
The liquid going downhill pulls the liquid going uphill.
understood. Is there a pump that springs to mind that would work for this?

 
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:43 PM   #10
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http://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-MCP35.../dp/B001I04P5W

that will have enough power to get the water up 12 feet of empty line before gravity takes over and helps it down the other side. and also give you a good amount of flow rate. ive had one of those running 24/7 for the better part of a decade; they are a little pricey, but very well made. the plastic housing gets brittle below 0C, but i have used it to pump -15C coolant before without issue.

once the loop is full, the only force acting against the pump in a closed loop would be the friction from the inside of the tubing. however on first start up with air in the lines, your pump will need to be able to force the liquid up the full 12 feet on its own (or you need to manually bleed it first some other way).

also- "RV antifreeze" is meant to not freeze solid and burst your pipes. it does however still turn into a semi-solid slush at temperatures below 0C, which make it very hard to pump. i would use something else if you are looking to go much lower than freezing.

 
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