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Old 04-10-2007, 01:42 AM   #1
drumike102
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well after an unsuccessful first attempt at extract brewing my second batch came out great. what a good feeling. I made a beer that is close to a clone of magic hat #9 but a bit more fruity. Also just brewed up my third batch which is a clone of westmalle trappist dubbel. I believe from the clone brews book or beer captured. the people that write the book own a homebrew shop very close to me so i go there and buy there kits. I tryed this beer at the store and fell in love so im brewing it up. Well just wanted to share my joy as after my first batch went bad i was a little upset. I had waited like 2 days before putting the yeast in which is I think why it went bad. now ive gotten the process down to a science and can get the wort cooled in about 10 mins and pitch the yeast and cap that baby. Well cheers everyone. Happy brewing.

Mike



 
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:50 AM   #2
c.n.budz
 
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Maltose Express is where I get my stuff too. I'm brewing their sierra nevada pale ale clone right now. Congrats on the good batch


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Old 04-13-2007, 01:41 AM   #3
Oakwood
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yippy for good beer. I have a follow up question on this post. Whats with the clones? do they really come out that close to the real thing? How would some one go about clearing a beer to look like, say " Bass Extra Pale Ale". I tend to get more amber beers then I plan on and would like this summer to brew a full blond but am worried about clearing it correctly.
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Old 04-13-2007, 05:19 PM   #4
DeathBrewer
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i'm in the process of making three of their clones right now. None of them are quite finished yet, but i gotta say every time we tasted the franziskaner hefeweizen clone, it was right on the money. will let you know after it comes out the bottle, but no matter what it's close and is going to be a damn fine beer

 
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:01 PM   #5
drumike102
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ya my clone i brewed of magic hat tasted pretty close except maybe a little more apricot taste but thats cuz i added more flavoring than called for but i happen to like it even better than regular magic hat so it worked out great. If I were you id call up maltose express and order one of there kits or get the book and source the ingredients at your local hombrew shop. you wont be dissapointed.


Mike
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:40 PM   #6
LouT
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Website or phone # for Maltose Express?
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oakwood
yippy for good beer. I have a follow up question on this post. Whats with the clones? do they really come out that close to the real thing? How would some one go about clearing a beer to look like, say " Bass Extra Pale Ale". I tend to get more amber beers then I plan on and would like this summer to brew a full blond but am worried about clearing it correctly.
With extract it is difficult to get a really pale ale, however there are a couple of things to try.
Use extra light DME. DME is usually lighter than LME in color.
Add most of your extract with 15min to go in your boil. This reduces the carmelization of the wort.
Don't use any colored specialty grains. I think only the lightest carmel and carapils can be used without much color.
Personally I'm not happy if I can see through my pint so a darker color is not a problem.
Craig

 
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:38 PM   #8
DeathBrewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouT
Website or phone # for Maltose Express?
http://maltose.com/

And both of their books, "Clone Brews" and "Beer Captured" are worth their weight in gold. Not only some great beers in there, but awesome directions and tons of information.
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Old 04-16-2007, 06:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oakwood
...How would some one go about clearing a beer... I tend to get more amber beers then I plan on...
First off are you asking about clearing beer or keeping the color very pale?

Clearing is more of getting yeast and proteins and such out of the beer so it isn't hazy and doesn't create chill haze. This is achievable a couple of ways. One way is with an agent like Irish moss that binds to the proteins and yeast to help them drop out (that's what all that gunk is on the bottom of your fermenter). Plop in a teaspoon of it or a whirlfloc at the end of the boil and it does the trick.

Another way is with cold conditioning. Putting the beer in cold storage for a period of time clears out the beer pretty darn well. Usually around a week or more in just above freezing temps does the trick.

Now if your looking for a more pale colored brew, as it sounds you are, then CBBaron has some good advice for you.

For extracts you can opt for DME rather than LME. The late extract method can be very helpful also, just remember to adjust your hops since the lower gravity boil will extract more bitterness. Search the forum for late extract method.

If full boils are possible this will also help out. Not usually the case but if you do have a rather large pot lying around boiling the entire amount of wort will induce less darkening.

And yes the darker specialty malts will definitely add to your color. Take a look at your recipe, sometimes darker specialty malts are thrown in mainly for their coloring. When you steep your specialty grains take note to how dark the water gets before you even put your extract in. If you can sub some lighter malts to get the same or close to the same flavor profile your good to go.

In the end though, how does your beer taste? If it tastes amazing, does one or two shades mean enough of a difference? It's completely up to personal opinion, and that's the beauty of this hobby!
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Old 04-19-2007, 01:10 AM   #10
LouT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathBrewer
http://maltose.com/

And both of their books, "Clone Brews" and "Beer Captured" are worth their weight in gold. Not only some great beers in there, but awesome directions and tons of information.
Cool! Thanks!


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