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Old 09-20-2011, 01:31 AM   #1
Apr 2011
Sibley, IA
Posts: 58
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

So I'm converting a Keggle to do eBIAB and after reading several forum posts I'm feeling kind of overwhelmed.

I've got the basics of cutting the top, have a friend helping me with the welding and am shopping for the parts I already have.

Parts I have:
Sanke Keg - removed spear and valve
Auber PID SYL-2352
SSR + heat sink
Thermocouple (not sure of type, but it has a quick-release for wires)

Plan to buy/order:
Element - 5500w 240v
Valve Setup - http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...&product_id=86 (3 pc SS valve w/ SS barb.)

Sight Gauge & Thermometer-
Gauge - http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...&product_id=90
Thermometer - 6" stem is suggested but worry about it catching on the bag.

Wire - plan to get the stuff that you use to wire a 220 outlet for your house, and use that to make the cord for the control box.

Plan to make:
-I plan to make some sort of pulley system for hanging the bag to let it drain while I bring it to a boil.
-I plan to either make a false bottom out of the top that's cut out, or break down and buy a hop blocker.
-I'm probably going to make a custom bag like the one on the DIY forums.
-I like the DIY post about turning the Sanke spear into a mash paddle, plan to do that with the one I just pulled out of the keg.

Other considerations:
My budget is fairly limited the planned items are likely to strain that budget.

This is intended to be a super simple BIAB system. I'd like to upgrade it a bit next spring with tax return money. At this point I'm likely expanding to a full out AG system, depending on cost.

If I want to work independently of when I need to use my dryer, I need to wire in a new 220 outlet in my basement.

Do I really need a pump and stuff to circulate during the mash phase? Or can I just get away with stirring with my sanke-paddle until I can afford to expand the system?
-Is a pump needed for draining the keggle? or will siphoning action via draining it through the valve work with a hop-blocker or manifold?

Do I need to weld in a dedicated coupling for the thermocouple (keeping in mind that the wires have a quick-release connector)?

I'm thinking of placing the sight gauge/thermometer opposite the element with the valve a couple inches off to the side of the gauge/thermometer. (all these I'll do directly under the handles to avoid smacking my shins on them when carrying the keggle). Where should I put the thermocouple if I'm giving it a dedicated spot.

What kind/gauge wire would be best for my wiring? (was thinking ~14ga for internal wiring, and the heavier stuff for cord and element power.)

Does anybody have a simplified wiring diagram that I don't need an engineering degree to read given the components that I have/absolutely need?

I currently have a smaller immersion chiller for my partial boil extract batches. What would be an affordable way to chill the BIAB full boil?

Is there anything that I'm missing?

Also, many thanks to onthekeg for helping me get started on this.

Reason: added a couple more questions

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Old 09-20-2011, 02:22 PM   #2
Jul 2011
Apex, North Carolina
Posts: 21
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Looks fairly similar to what I'm doing. I just got my pot a couple of days ago and some fittings from bargains fittings yesterday. I have been debating 240V vs 110V and I think I am going to go with 2 2000W 110V elements. In only brew 5 Ga batches.

When I want to brew in the garage I can just pop in a 20A double breaker into my subpanel and get two circuits this way, each with a GFI outlet. Seems cheaper than a 240V GFI breaker or the spa panel route.

Using the 110 V element will also allow me to brew in the kitchen and just use one element to help out the stove.

I just did a partial mash BIAB in my small pot and after having to hold the bag with just 6lbs of grain in it I'll definitely put a pulley system into the garage for all-grain.

I have not decided yet on temp control. The ebay PID with SSR and thermocouple might be an option but programming the PID seems confusing to me (maybe it won't be so bad once I start).

Alternatively I might go for more manual control and build a simple PWM controller for one of the elements.

Have not decided yet on IC vs counterflow. I like the simplicity of the IC but am wondering if the CFC would be more efficient and conserve more water.

Ah, so many choices.

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Old 11-18-2011, 05:49 PM   #3
Feb 2009
Posts: 1,786
Liked 83 Times on 65 Posts

How is your project coming along? Have you got it all running already? Sorry for being off the board for awhile, as usual life interferes with brewing at times.

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