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Old 09-13-2011, 03:59 PM   #1
TriggerFingers
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Aug 2011
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Hey everyone,

I am brewing up my very first batch of beer this weekend and have a question about extract additions. The beer is an Amber with steeping grains and an OG of 1.054.

I am planning on "steeping small" for the grains. And then adding more water to the pot to start the boil.

Ok, so I have 1 Lb of Wheat DME and 6 Lbs of light LME.

Should I
A) start with the DME and then add the LME late?
or
B) DME + half the LME early and the rest of the DME late?
or
C) other?

I am trying to formulate a plan so that everything is smooth sailing on brewing day!

 
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:05 PM   #2
gcdowd
 
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I assume you're doing a partial boil. How much water will you be boiling?

Also, what is your hop schedule?
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:09 PM   #3
TriggerFingers
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Correct, partial boil of 3-3.5 Gallons (my pot is 4 Gallons)

Bittering hops at 60 and 30

final hop additions at 10, 5, 1

Worked it out on Beer Calculus and everything looks good. I am just curious about when to add the extracts (to make the best possible beer I can)

 
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:55 PM   #4
levon15
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I do partials in a 3 gallon pot. 2.5 gallons of water to start. Once I add ~6lbs of DME its dicey throughout the boil.

I'd add the DME first, its harder to get dissolved and it will easier in fresh water rather water with 6lbs of LME already in it.

 
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:06 PM   #5
squirrelly
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I agree, I think I would add the DME first as well. There is actually a lot of controversy about this in the brewing world amongst judges and brewers alike. Some will argue by adding extract to boil in a smaller water quantity will lead to carmalazation in the kettle, and leave the brewer with that "extract twang." I however, do not subscribe to this theory. If you are doing a 60-90 min. Boil I doubt your kettle is getting above 360* F for this molecular transformation to occur. By doing such a late addition you may be robbing the wort of the nutrients and essential flavors gained from a vigorous extract boil. I think your plan is sound, and you should not have any problems. If you are too worried about it you could always do the full extract boil and then add your 2 gallons of sterile water to the fermenter during flame out.

 
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:44 PM   #6
gcdowd
 
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Just keep in mind that you are going to get different hop utilization depending on when you add the extract and how much you add. Your IBUs will vary significantly
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:55 PM   #7
solbes
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I brewed an amber very similar to yours as my first batch too.

I would try boil as much as you can handle. Adding a few drops of Fermcap-S will help reduce hot break boil overs (also helps when added to primary to reduce yeast blow offs of certain varieties). Boiling more water should help keep your color lighter and closer to style. The flip side is it will be harder to cool down, so either have a wort chiller or lots of ice to add to sink.

I added all of the DME + LME at the start of boil and it turned out closer to a brown than amber color wise, also started only 2.5 gallons which was quite a bit lower at end of boil.

DME first at 60 min. Then maybe add your LME in increments. First half LME at 45 min, 2nd half LME at 15 min. You will get more bittering hop utilization this way as the wort is less concentrated. I like to shift some of the 60 minute hop additions towards the end for aroma/flavor to keep the bitterness closer to designed.

After boil is done, get that baby down to pitching temps as quick as possible. If you are using Nottingham or something similar, hold off pitching that yeast until you are near the bottom temp range for the yeast (really wish I had done this on batch #1). Cheers
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:03 PM   #8
RobWalker
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I would just chuck it all in and save a bit for the last 10 minutes.

I'm weird though.

 
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:10 PM   #9
solbes
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It'll make beer by just chucking it all in too.

Woaah Rob. Bud clone? I would not think our friends across the Atlantic would be into the "King of Beers." Maybe I'm wrong?
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:07 PM   #10
dover157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levon15 View Post

I'd add the DME first, its harder to get dissolved and it will easier in fresh water rather water with 6lbs of LME already in it.

+1 I brewed a red ale last week and used half DME and half LME, added half of each one at the start and that last 1.5 lbs of DME did not want to disolve, Next time I will put all the dry in at the start, and add the LME towards the end to keep the color light.

 
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