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Old 09-08-2011, 03:50 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Zixxer10R View Post
Psych, both WORTS on fingers and WORT (unfermented beer) are spelled the same way. Check your engrish before correcting someone else.
Words to live by. (For some of us anyway)

I love it because this has so many things to make fun of.

1. You told him to do what you did NOT do.
2. You tried to correct him for being a spelling nazi, thereby becoming one yourself.
3. Misspelling english only diminished the impact even more of your already misinformed post.

I thank you for providing me this great entertainment this morning!


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Old 09-08-2011, 06:52 PM   #32
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You are quite welcome. I must say, my idiocy did lead to some great replies though.


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Old 09-08-2011, 07:58 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by maxam View Post
Lightbulb! My housemates don't drain their pool, they winterize it with some sort of antifreeze (?). When the temps get down in a few months I could just toss that pump into the shallow end and not use a cooler/bucket.

Unless those chemicals (chlorine, pool shock, antifreeze stuff) do naughty things to copper? This is less and less like a good idea...
It's a good idea. Been doing that for 2 years now without a problem (except my wife freaks out and won't let any kids in there when the cord is coming out).

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Old 09-08-2011, 08:04 PM   #34
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I am going to Unjack this thread.
I use a wart chiller and tap water. Usually chill from boil to 100 in about 15 minutes. Running water faster just consumes more water, as the discharge temp from the chiller is not as high. Not a noticiable increase in chill time. Once i get to 100 it seems the chiller becomes less effective, probably because I am approaching the temp of the tap water and there's less of a temp delta for the water to pick up. Therefore, the pump rate is probably not as critical as the water temp. On the next brew day I will fill 2 sinks with water. One I will add ice. Drop the pump into the tap temp sink and run the tap into it to replenish.Then when I hit the "plateau" of about 100f switch over to the ice water and move the replenish tap. I'll update when I can.
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:28 PM   #35
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i am a complete and udder moron right now.
Most of us probably are udder morons. Have the right woman whip out her set, and many of us are reduced to salivating, blubbering idiots.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:55 PM   #36
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I love the chiller you made. The original design is by far the most efficient. I was planning on building one far more complicated until I saw this one.
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:25 AM   #37
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Water usage shouldn't really be a factor. The waste water can be used for other things- cleaning, strike water for a double batch, hooked to a sprinkler for the yard, etc. Also, there isn't that much water being used to start with. The first poster was worried about water usage, then says later he dumps the waste into his pool.

If you have a pool, recircing to that until the temp diff becomes too small, then switching to a recirc ice bath is the most sensible approach. He will need a bigger pump, though, or just use the hose as input then exhaust into the pool for the first cooling phase.

Quote:
Originally Posted by william_shakes_beer View Post
Running water faster just consumes more water, as the discharge temp from the chiller is not as high.

On the next brew day I will fill 2 sinks with water. One I will add ice. Drop the pump into the tap temp sink and run the tap into it to replenish.Then when I hit the "plateau" of about 100f switch over to the ice water and move the replenish tap. I'll update when I can.
Using the faucet directly for the tap temp portion will get you better flow/chilling speed. A high initial flow isn't wasting any water as long as the output temp is high. You will have to switch the chiller input to the pump output for the ice bath, but it isn't difficult.

I assume you are going to exhaust tap temp waste water somewhere. Otherwise, if recirc'd, the tap temp sink will become very hot very quickly.

Agitating the wort makes a huge difference in chill time and tap water chilling efficacy.
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Old 09-09-2011, 04:27 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxam
Lightbulb! My housemates don't drain their pool, they winterize it with some sort of antifreeze (?). When the temps get down in a few months I could just toss that pump into the shallow end and not use a cooler/bucket.

Unless those chemicals (chlorine, pool shock, antifreeze stuff) do naughty things to copper? This is less and less like a good idea...
PEARL JAM!!! I was @ Alpine Valley for the fest!
(sorry, had to hi-jack, my favorite band)
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:23 AM   #39
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Agitating the wort makes a huge difference in chill time and tap water chilling efficacy.
But doesn't that introduce oxygen if the temp is > 80F?
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:37 AM   #40
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But doesn't that introduce oxygen if the temp is > 80F?
Sure isn't that the point though pre-pitch?


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