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Old 04-11-2007, 06:33 PM   #11
Rook
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Isn't heat going to break down the lupulin glands and release the alpha acids, thus bittering the beer more than desired?
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:12 PM   #12
CBBaron
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mew
I heard that when dry hopping with pellets it's a good idea to "loosen" the pellets by putting them in some near-boiling water and then letting them cool to room temp. I haven't done it, just what I've heard.
I racked on top of loose pellets in my secondary. The hops quickly spread across the surface of the beer to a uniform density. I don't know how much more loose you are going to get.

Maybe I should try a little agitation to get them to settle.
Craig

 
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Old 04-16-2007, 12:14 AM   #13
lgtg
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Jan 2007
Southwest Florida
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I brewed today and my pre-pitch OG was an astounding 1.087!! Problem though, I used 2lbs pre-hopped DME and 3lbs 2-row in a partial mash. I collected just under 2.5 gallons of wort which is what I brew for half batch. This will most likely (even though I pitched two packs dry yeast on it) be a pretty sweet but strong beer.

I would like to dry hop to balance this beer out. Anyone tell me what hops are kind of univeral?? I want hops that will bitter this beer up a little (it's a golden lager being brewed at ale temps)

I will leave this sucker in primary for most of two weeks, then rack to secondary (this is the best time to dry hop?) leave it along in secondary for up to 2 weeks and then rack with some kind of filter and bottle...sound right?


Any hop sugggestions would be cool, thanks..

Larry

 
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Old 04-16-2007, 12:44 AM   #14
lgtg
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Jan 2007
Southwest Florida
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This is what I found on AHB:

"Warrior is a new extremely high alpha hop with a lot of potential. It is a mild hop and mainly used for bittering. Typical beer styles that are using this hop include pale ales and IPAs"

My beer is pale...er, it's golden anyhow.

 
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Old 04-16-2007, 01:56 AM   #15
gruntingfrog
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May 2006
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If you're looking to add some bittering during dry hopping, you'll need to boil the hops in some water and pour the entire thing into secondary (after it cools, of course). IMHO, however, you should just toss some hops in a muslin or cheesecloth bag (if you don't have a nylon "hop bag") into the carboy and let it go through secondary.

As far as what hops to use... For the most part, dry hopping imparts aroma and not much else. Go to your LHBS and smell every type of hop they have until you find one that you REALLY like. I personally LOVE cascade for aroma, but you may have a different preference, and that's not even the only type of hops that I love for aroma. You have to make a choice on your own. Trust your nose and have fun.
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Old 04-16-2007, 02:04 AM   #16
lgtg
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Jan 2007
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I don't have a LHBS but I'll be ordering from Austin Home Brew, kinda dissapointing that dry hopping won't provide at least some bittering...this is gonna be one sweet beer unless those yeast packs attentuate to at least 80-85%...

Cascade seems to be regarded as a good dry hopping pellet. Thanks for the input.

 
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