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Old 09-07-2011, 01:10 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by MooMooBrew View Post
anyone have any comments about stainless?
My single tier stand was made with 1.5 inch 16 gauge (.065") stainless steel tubing. I sanded and polished the tubing after it was welded and it looks fantastic. I went with stainless steel plumbing for all the gas pipe and also used stainless tri-clover fittings. It costs a lot more, but I am buying all of my parts a little each month, so it doesn't mess with the budget. It takes longer to complete the build this way but I love the look of all stainless. The quality of this rig is amazing, this thing will last forever.

One thing with .065" tubing is that it is fairly thin and not thick enough so you can't tap it for threads to attach screws. I needed a flat rectangle piece of stainless steel to support the gas pipe underneath the top frame so I could use a pipe clamp to support the weight (I have a more elaborate configuration with drip legs), and I could not use a screw to mount the metal piece underneath the top of the frame. I thought about it for awhile and I was able to use two stainless steel pop rivets. I drilled two holes in the rectangle piece and under the top frame and then just pop riveted the metal piece to the underneath portion of the top frame. It worked like a charm, very solid, problem solved. Of course I could have had the metal piece welded to the underneath portion of the frame (I don't own a welder), but I already had polished the stand and didn't want to mess it up and have to sand and polish it again.

If your budget will allow it stainless looks great, you don't have to paint it, it won't rust if you don't ding it up and gouge it to badly (even then you could always repassivate it), and you don't have the flaking paint issues from the flames. If you decide to have a reqular steel stand powder coated, the cost to have this done is also expensive and you might save some money just buying stainless steel tube from the begining. Just my two cents though.......

John
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:28 PM   #22
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I just got an e-mail from the guy who picked up my steel and he said he thinks it was 16 gauge (.065").
So sounds like if you went with 16g, you could still tap it reasonably? Sounds awfully thin to tap though i know it is doable based on project boxes I have built. Difference being I was tapping for small screws and small components.

hmm... maybe 1/8 is too much overkill? Probably heavy as heck as well. The wall thickness on my quote was .120
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Old 09-07-2011, 05:10 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by jcav View Post
My single tier stand was made with 1.5 inch 16 gauge (.065") stainless steel tubing. I sanded and polished the tubing after it was welded and it looks fantastic. I went with stainless steel plumbing for all the gas pipe and also used stainless tri-clover fittings. It costs a lot more, but I am buying all of my parts a little each month, so it doesn't mess with the budget. It takes longer to complete the build this way but I love the look of all stainless. The quality of this rig is amazing, this thing will last forever.

One thing with .065" tubing is that it is fairly thin and not thick enough so you can't tap it for threads to attach screws. I needed a flat rectangle piece of stainless steel to support the gas pipe underneath the top frame so I could use a pipe clamp to support the weight (I have a more elaborate configuration with drip legs), and I could not use a screw to mount the metal piece underneath the top of the frame. I thought about it for awhile and I was able to use two stainless steel pop rivets. I drilled two holes in the rectangle piece and under the top frame and then just pop riveted the metal piece to the underneath portion of the top frame. It worked like a charm, very solid, problem solved. Of course I could have had the metal piece welded to the underneath portion of the frame (I don't own a welder), but I already had polished the stand and didn't want to mess it up and have to sand and polish it again.

If your budget will allow it stainless looks great, you don't have to paint it, it won't rust if you don't ding it up and gouge it to badly (even then you could always repassivate it), and you don't have the flaking paint issues from the flames. If you decide to have a reqular steel stand powder coated, the cost to have this done is also expensive and you might save some money just buying stainless steel tube from the begining. Just my two cents though.......

John
I was sort of feeling the same way about it, powder coating is just another step i dont want to have to deal with if i can avoid it.

any of you guys care to comment on the minimum thickness for tapping screws? i was looking to put some casters on the bottom and side of my stand (so i can store it vertically.
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:39 PM   #24
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i used 1" angle and it's plenty strong enough, there are two 1" flat-bar columns between keggle locations though. I do wish i went with square tube btw, easier to grind down and angle has different stiffness on different axes.
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:52 PM   #25
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So sounds like if you went with 16g, you could still tap it reasonably? Sounds awfully thin to tap though i know it is doable based on project boxes I have built. Difference being I was tapping for small screws and small components.

hmm... maybe 1/8 is too much overkill? Probably heavy as heck as well. The wall thickness on my quote was .120
Now that I think about it, it almost has to be thicker than 16g. I don't think it is up to 1/8" though. The only way I can measure it is to pull one of my casters out of a leg and use a caliper on it. It would be this weekend before I could do it.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:49 PM   #26
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Now that I think about it, it almost has to be thicker than 16g. I don't think it is up to 1/8" though. The only way I can measure it is to pull one of my casters out of a leg and use a caliper on it. It would be this weekend before I could do it.
If you don't mind that would be great just so I know I am not getting myself into a super heavy beast for no reason - I am still designing so no rush.

I mean the stock I was quoted at .120 it is a fuzz under 1/8 inch thickness, but darn close. However just talked with the guy and he said he doesn't stock smaller thickness in the 2x2'' tube steel. If I wanted a different size they would have to order it and it would be just slightly more expensive than the .120 stuff. i.e. I would like to stick with the tube steel in 1/8. If I don't I would have to consider 1.5x1.5 or similar.



outside92129 - I had heard angle was a B!tch to work with versus tube steel. Originally I was planning on working with that.


as for the tapping question, you can tap just about any thickness, depending on your thread sizing. For casters on a similar sized rig as Jon's I would think you would need thicker than 1/16 for them to be tapped reliably. You want some thread or you will end up putting all the stress on a tiny surface area and possibly strip the internal threading if you say, whacked into an obstacle while moving it. Not sure how likely that would be. Even if you stripped the threading, it is unlikely the caster would come off since the rig will be weighted over the caster's bolt.


lastly, I should be getting my new 100 qt mega pot tonight (have been using my electric 60qt HLT as BK too). So finally I will be able to lay them all out and get the tolerances set in reality, then on paper! Of course that also means my night will be setting it up with the electrics
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:01 PM   #27
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I'll get it measured. I don't think he was right with .065. I think .120 is closer and would be more than enough.

Take a look at the pics for my wheels. They mount inside the legs. They slide in and then you turn them to expand a large rubber sleeve that locks them in place. This is by far more secure than a bolt or self tapping screws could provide. They also lock the swivel and roll of the wheel.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:13 PM   #28
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Quote:
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I'll get it measured. I don't think he was right with .065. I think .120 is closer and would be more than enough.

Take a look at the pics for my wheels. They mount inside the legs. They slide in and then you turn them to expand a large rubber sleeve that locks them in place. This is by far more secure than a bolt or self tapping screws could provide. They also lock the swivel and roll of the wheel.
I didn't see the wheels on your thread ...looking now... - where did you source them from (if you recall)?
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:25 PM   #29
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I bought them new, but second hand from someone.
They look very similar to these:
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:35 PM   #30
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Very cool. As with many of the things on your awesome rig - I bet they weren't cheap
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